worst position ever? is there an easy way to get the cap off and check the brake fluid, looking over the entire design of the bike the rear master cylinder is the worst design i ever seen on rear brakes
freebyrd

 

it is fine on mine, but if got diff pipes... your just going to have to weasle back there and un screw it... be sure you protect your paint, brake fluid is mean stuff... check the cap i am pretty sure it is dot 5 that goes in there... but you want to make sure... if you mix 4 and 5 or 3 and 5 you will lock up your breaks cause it turns to like a jelly... just swapped to dot 5 in my brothers bike for his hydrolic clutch and all the brakes... had to blow the lines clean, then add in the new stuff... took forever to re bleed even with a mnivac bleeded... but it is done and all fresh!

 

yeah i'm sure that makes a big difference and i don't need to check it just yet, but i ain't looking forward to it, but the manual does indeed require that you use dot5 on an 07

 

cool mine is dot 5 as well i was not sure if they changed it... my dads bike is dot 4 and so it the old sporty...

 

oh yeah joe i called around yesterday and the 1200 to 2000 degree black paint i want for my mufflers only comes in flat black i guess the heat would cook off any shiny enamel to bad i wanted some shine on em, even the powder coaters here in town said their ceramic process is still gonna cme out flat black,

so since thats the case why pay them 120 bucks when i can rattle can again to the tune of 7.99

i would a have been a good tagger in the mexican gangs i'm getting pretty good with this paint can stuff
although when i shot the clear coat on my horn cover i did about five coats to bring it up to the level of the factory vivid black paint job in terms of its glossy finish and i was choking to death in my garage (slash) paintbooth

 

My shop manual says DOT 4 for my 14 FatBob.

 

It should be dot 4 not dot 5 and it should say it right on the cap