Slip-on Install Question
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Slip-on Install Question
Ok, here's my newb question.
I get my Rush slip-ons tomorrow. I already got my new clamps from HD dealer, and I don't think I'll have any trouble with the logistics of the removal or installation of the pipes.
How tight should I make the clamps? I do not own a torque-wrench. If it is a matter of over-tightening and ruining something, I can go beg, borrow or buy one. So what do you recommend
A. Snug
B. A few turns past snug
C. As tight as I can get it
D. I'm stupid if I don't get a torque wrench
(if so how tight)
Also, do i need to use lock-tite or anything else I'm not thinking of.
Thanks guys.
I get my Rush slip-ons tomorrow. I already got my new clamps from HD dealer, and I don't think I'll have any trouble with the logistics of the removal or installation of the pipes.
How tight should I make the clamps? I do not own a torque-wrench. If it is a matter of over-tightening and ruining something, I can go beg, borrow or buy one. So what do you recommend
A. Snug
B. A few turns past snug
C. As tight as I can get it
D. I'm stupid if I don't get a torque wrench
(if so how tight)Also, do i need to use lock-tite or anything else I'm not thinking of.
Thanks guys.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 1
From: Upstate, SC
I tightened mine as tight as I could with a normal 10" ratchet. Retighten them after the first ride when the pipes are hot, and then check them again after they cool off.
Keep in mind that on a Dyna those clamps are the ONLY thing keeping your mufflers on the bike. If they let go, you lose your mufflers.
Keep in mind that on a Dyna those clamps are the ONLY thing keeping your mufflers on the bike. If they let go, you lose your mufflers.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 4
From: Newtown, PA
Get a torque wrench - Sears makes good ones and you are going to repeatedly need it during your ownership of your motorcycle.
In the absence of a torque wrench, get it VERY snug, and then a a little past that. That will be fine. If it needs to be a little tighter, you'll know when you start the bike, as the noise from a leaking muffler clamp is very distinctive. Also put your hand by the muffler bracket to see if you can feel any exhaust leaking.
Sorry to disagree with Gary7, but after you ride the bike, recheck the muffler clamps when the bike is COLD. When metal is hot, it EXPANDS and that is misleading from a tightness viewpoint. The exhaust pipe could expand into a loose muffler clamp and seem properly tight when it is not. This applies to cars, bikes, and anything else with an engine. You do not need to use Loctite on the muffler clamps, but if you feel better, put a little BLUE Loctite on the threads.
The rear of each muffler will be held onto the muffler brackets - you'll see them when you lie on your back with your face under the mufflers. You can do this work no problem with the bike on the sidestand. Do not forget to tighten up the fasterners holding the mufflers to the brackets.
If you have trouble getting off the stock mufflers, shoot some WD-40 where the mufflers join the headpipes and if need be, use an inexpensive Sears strap-wrench to twist them off (the kind of strap wrench with plastic handle and rubber strap).
The entire job should take you an hour max.
In the absence of a torque wrench, get it VERY snug, and then a a little past that. That will be fine. If it needs to be a little tighter, you'll know when you start the bike, as the noise from a leaking muffler clamp is very distinctive. Also put your hand by the muffler bracket to see if you can feel any exhaust leaking.
Sorry to disagree with Gary7, but after you ride the bike, recheck the muffler clamps when the bike is COLD. When metal is hot, it EXPANDS and that is misleading from a tightness viewpoint. The exhaust pipe could expand into a loose muffler clamp and seem properly tight when it is not. This applies to cars, bikes, and anything else with an engine. You do not need to use Loctite on the muffler clamps, but if you feel better, put a little BLUE Loctite on the threads.
The rear of each muffler will be held onto the muffler brackets - you'll see them when you lie on your back with your face under the mufflers. You can do this work no problem with the bike on the sidestand. Do not forget to tighten up the fasterners holding the mufflers to the brackets.
If you have trouble getting off the stock mufflers, shoot some WD-40 where the mufflers join the headpipes and if need be, use an inexpensive Sears strap-wrench to twist them off (the kind of strap wrench with plastic handle and rubber strap).
The entire job should take you an hour max.
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 894
Likes: 4
From: Newberg OR
Without a torque wrench it's too easy to twist off a bolt head trying to get it 'good and tight', or worse yet strip out a threaded hole. Trust me - recovering from either of these is not worth the cost of a good torque wrench. If you can only afford one just remember 1ft/lb = 12in/lbs, and as soon as you can afford it get the other one.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 3
From: Chesterfield, VA
In consideration of removing mufflers later for work or upgrades, use a little anti-seize on the portion which meets the header pipes. They can be extremely tough to separate and make it easy to scar up your muffs.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,021
Likes: 12
From: Greene County, MS
Again....get a torque wrench. And when you get a chance, pick up a service manual. Both will come in very handy as long as you own your scoot. The torque on my Screamin' Eagle slipons is 45-60 ft.lb.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
So the shopping list is a torque-wrench from Sears, strap wrench, WD40 (in the garage), and some anti-seize. Is "Anti-seize" the name of the stuff or am I looking for a certain type. Thanks for the details, guys. I believe in doing it right the first time if I can, and not knowing many people who ride personally, makes your advice invaluable.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 3
From: Chesterfield, VA
Permatex Anti-seize is readily available from the dealer, hardware stores, and auto parts stores. A $5.00 tube will go a long ways. You may also need it if you ever remove your wheels, O2 sensors, etc.
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Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
torque?
is 60 ft/lb the correct torque for these slip'on clamps?
I just got done with them. They sound so beautifully deep and rumbly. Took it around the block a few times. Now cars will know when I'm next to them. I guess I'll recheck the torque after I get a reply. Again thanks for all the help.
I just got done with them. They sound so beautifully deep and rumbly. Took it around the block a few times. Now cars will know when I'm next to them. I guess I'll recheck the torque after I get a reply. Again thanks for all the help.
Last edited by evesweater; Mar 27, 2009 at 09:19 PM.