Thanks DynaBob,

I had my front wheel off today (changing my fork seals) and ran the inner bearing race around with my finger on both sides - the ABS sensor side was smooth, but the clamp side was *grumble grumble*. Whew, glad I ran across this post and became aware enough to check. The bearings and bearing puller are now on order!

Thanks, guys!

 

I bought a TUSK slide hammer type wheel bearing remover with a lot of bearing adapters for about $80. One of the bearings in my front wheel was rusted in so bad that I was SLAMMING that hammer to death trying to get it out . I was sure I was going to break off the little ridge that holds the backside of the bearing - but nope. I finally had to actually remove the tool and pound the bearing IN just an RCH to break the rust, and then reinstall the tool and out it came. The bearing puller came through with flying colors, ready to be used again. Great tool, recommended.

 

Glad you found the bad bearing before they went, but I would never recommend the slide hammer to beat your bearings out.
I am glad you got them out though, but if you would have purchased the tool I recommended you most likely would not have had trouble beating the bearing out or have to beat the new ones back in.
Again, glad you were successful in your repair.

 

Yup, I think you are right about not having to beat a bearing out with the tool you recommended (although most do not require that amount of force). The advantage of a slide hammer tool is that you do not have to have an even surface of predetermined size to support the frame of the tool - so it is a lot more versatile. And since I would rarely remove and then replace the same bearing, I'm not terribly concerned about damaging the race by applying that kind of lateral force.

Each has an advantage and disadvantage, and the important thing is that we both got the same results!

 

Not to belabor the issue, but the hub is quite even and the applied force is equal around the bearings circumference whereas the slide hammed only relies on impact and if not perfectly perpendicular to the bearing applies unequal force that most likely causes the bearing to shift unequally causing an elliptical shape, like and oval in a round hole, which causes it to become hard to remove and can distort the bore, gall or basically damage the bore diameter. Twice as much work to remove the bearing with a slide hammer since every blow upwards pulls the wheel up with it, unless you some how bolted it down. The slide hammer also does not offer the ability to properly press the bearings back into the bore squarely and with out impact to the bearing no matter whether you are driving it in by the outer race. If you have an 08 you had better replace the rear bearings at every tire change, especially on a bagger, so by no means would this tool go unused by someone who performs their own work. As long as you are comfortable with the repair then that is what counts.

 

Right. If the only bearings you are ever expecting to change are Harley wheel bearings.

 

Wrong!

 

wow harley wants $309 for this tool

 

The Pit Posse tool for $88 works fine. That's what i have. From what i've seen on both my personal bikes(pre-08) 50,000 and they are getting dry and ready for a change. 100,000 miles my ***. You need the tool. Those bearings are in there impossibly tight!