Having seen and been reading several posts on stripped TORX screws lately, I searched the internet for some info on the use of this type of screws.

Quote (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx):

"By design, TORX head screws resist cam-out better than Phillips head or slot head (flathead) screws. Where Phillips heads were designed to cause the driver to cam out, to prevent over-tightening, TORX heads were designed to prevent cam-out."

"A TORX variant, TORX PLUS, is designed to allow greater torque, and to minimize wear...Standard TORX drivers can be used to drive TORX PLUS screws, but not to full torque because of the loose fit. TORX PLUS drivers will not fit standard TORX screws. They are shortened to 'Torx TS' ".

Next to that I found this list on typical dimensional & torque specifications of TORX tools for use with internal socket head type TORX screws:



Reading this info I ask myself:

Could it be stripped TORX screws are caused by the misuse of non-fitting tools (T vs TS) and over-tightening the screws during assembly process or as we use to say in the Army: "It's not the gun but the man behind it"......

 

The most common torx screw stripped out is a T27. Most tool kits don't come with this size but they do come with a T25 so people use the smaller one and strip out the T27 screw.

Primary covers are T27, Clutch and Brake clamps are T25, etc...

 

I have changed out 98% of my torx heads to stainless allen heads and couldn't be happier.That is my suggestion to those out there. Ace hardware has them all.

 

On my 07 models, the clutch and brake clamps for the handlebars were T-27's also....but my switch housings were the T-25's.
I switched them all out to allenhead capscrews.
Yes, you do have to make sure you have the right bits, and by all means and they do work great.
I just prefer the look of the chrome allen head cap screws that's all.

 

in case someone is wondering WTF an Allenhead cap screw is...

TheDone.... ya got a few pics of what your ride looks like with these caps. this is a good idea. I think im gonna go in this direction. Just wanted t get an idea of what im looking at.

 

Sorry no pics and my wife is in Europe now and she has the camera. I have been thinking about it and the only place I haven't changed to the Allen heads is my battery box and fuse panel. The rotors, triple trees,hand controls, shocks,derby cover, points cover, dash, seat, have all been changed. From #6 up to 1/2" you can get at Ace hardware. The rotor bolts are metric.

 

I checked with a great indy wrench I know and he confirmed that HD uses Torx Plus. He isn't sure what year they changed to that, but using Torx bits in a TP will definitely cause issues. The Torx is slightly smaller and tapered a bit differently.

That said, using any T-25 in a T-27 will cause problems. In addition, HD uses some industrial strength threadlocker. I busted an allen head socket trying to tighten the bolt to hold on my frame-mount highway pegs because the pre-applied threadlocker was so hard-set. Imagine what that's like after it's been in place for a while? I ended up having to scrape it all off with a dental pick and wire brush before I could get the bolts to thread in properly.

One problem is that not a lot of places offer Torx Plus. Snap On has a great set but it's expensive. Craftsman has Torx Plus bits as well - I know some don't care for them but I've had only good luck with their stuff.

 

This is some good info. I want to remove my rear passenger pegs but got scared because they are on there so tight, I'm worried about stripping them.

 

also an allen head user when it goes back together... but to prevent them from stripping on the way out, if you smack the middle of them with a punch it will loosen them and they will come right out

 

Great info here. Thanks for the posts, especially the Torx torque values.