for a 2014 bike ?

 

You really should just change the whole exhaust pipe.

But if not, then physically open the valve and then fix it open with a screw, wire, rivet etc. Then disconnect the cable that goes to the solenoid motor - or just pull the motor out and throw it away. Then just tuck the connector away.

I'd still say replace the whole pipe though...otherwise you still have the catalytic converter in there.

 

Hi adm, I'm gonna replace the whole exhaust of my 2010 Dyna as posted in the thread
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...a-2010-wg.html

I'm waiting for the delivery of it, should be this week
Now, I'm thinking to completely remove this damned AEC. (motor, wire and butterfly valve).
Do you know if the bike will give errors for the missing AEC valve motor?

 

The Power Vision software WinPV,has switches to turn on/off active exhaust/intake. Then you can flash to your ECM. You need a Power Vision.Especially if you change exhaust system and intake.

 

I removed the entire motor and cable assembly when i changed my pipe and it didn't throw any error codes - but then again I did already have the PowerVision installed and AES and AIS both set to off.

 

Yes, on the non-US model ECUs it does give an error. You'll need one of these: https://www.denniskirk.com/daytona-t...rd/2000408.sku

 

I deactivated the ective exhaust with my power vision tuner, same can be done with a SERT.
However once done the valve is left in the default closed position on my 2014 fatbob.
so upon closer inspection I can see that the cable drive mounted on the battery box has a convenient sized 29mm nut that if you turn counter clockwise it pulls the cable and opens the valve. the resistance provided by the motor is enough to overcome the spring tension on the valve and thus leaves the valve open.

problem solved, bike is now running through both pipes at all rpm and speeds.

see the attcahed pics to show the cable "nut" you need to turn.

 

Sorry for bringing this back up but I have a question 'bout the active exhaust valve.
I'm planning on having my pipes, short shots, replaced by stock pipes for my Street bob 2007.
These pipes have the active exhaust system, and because the module is not installed, I would like to take advantage of the fact that now I can leave it of.
But blocking the valve in open position and keeping it there, is somewhat a problem.
How do you guys go about this and could you share maybe a picture.
Tried to read it, but english is a bit difficult sometimes.
Greets from Belgium
Ride safe.

 

​​​​​​Should I fix the valve in the open or closed position? It squeaks like hell when it opens and closes so I need to fix it one way or other.

 

The solution I found was to bend a 1,5 inch piece of hard wire, then inserted one side of the wire in the ferrule orifice, the other side inside the muffler clamp. Worked 100%, valve fully opened.