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-   -   Slipping Handlebars (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/626477-slipping-handlebars.html)

HemiOrange 04-01-2011 11:45 PM


Originally Posted by HOGRIDA_06 (Post 8125500)
I use a center punch and put raised dimples on the bar in the clamp area. That combined with a piece of thin rubber (bike inner tube) between the bottom riser and the bar and you'll be good to go.

Dang! You just said what I was going to say, about the center punch dimpling. Just wrap some masking tape around the adjacent area that you don't want to dimple and have away with the hammer and punch in between the tape. This will do more than knurls because it will effectively increase the bar diameter around each dimple. You can do the same thing with the clamps where they contact the bar.

dynabobster 04-02-2011 07:38 PM

Dimpling them can cause stress risers or even cracks and break, especially if they are the OE Stainless Steel bars.

ShortFatMexican 06-26-2011 12:18 PM

One Piece Clamp?
 

Originally Posted by DK Custom (Post 8125349)
8541hog, thank you for the clarification, I should have been more clear.

A few years ago the Motor Company issued a service bulletin regarding apes and the small stock two piece top clamps, stating that because of the leverage exerted on apes there was a tendency to metal fatigue and possible breakage of the handlebars between the two clamps over a period of time.

They recommended that their one piece top clamp be used when installing apes.

As you state, there are many larger two piece top clamps that may do the job just fine.

Kevin

Does anyone know if they make one ( a one piece top clamp) for mine? It's an '09 Street Bob with those piece-of-sh*t integrated clamps (built-in to the top trees. My 14" Burly's did not come knurled, my clamps aren't knurled and they slip everytime I hit a bad bump.

sicpup 06-26-2011 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by fskitch (Post 8123388)
Are the bars grooved where the rubbing is happening? When I was kid I'd wrap emery cloth around the bars--rough side out--when I'd strip the bars on my stingray. worked like a charm!.... I didn't cruze at 80mph on my stingray, buy new bars!!


BBWWWWHHhAAAAhHAAA :icon_photo:

Steel Steed 06-26-2011 02:50 PM


Originally Posted by thrillbilly (Post 8123243)
Well, i took my bike out for a ride for the first time a couple weeks ago and found something that freaked me out a bit while i was ridin.

I was mergin onto the highway, when i was adjusting my body to kick the pig and it felt like my handlebars moved. didn't think too much about it, but when i was merging, i gripped the bars and got set to pass a truck when, Yup those sumbiches moved.

got it home, back out the bolts, bolted it back down. grabbed the bars with one hand and moved them again. Pulled the top clamp off and the bars are not knurled.

Anyone know of a fix for this, or am i just gonna need new bars?

and the cheaper the better


Make sure it's not just the rubber bushings flexing. I freaked at first until I realized there was nothing to worry about. I imagine the rubber bushings are to absorb some vibration before reaching your hands. You can get the poly bushings that won't flex like that.

SC-Longhair 06-26-2011 02:55 PM


Originally Posted by ShortFatMexican (Post 8499808)
Does anyone know if they make one ( a one piece top clamp) for mine? It's an '09 Street Bob with those piece-of-sh*t integrated clamps (built-in to the top trees. My 14" Burly's did not come knurled, my clamps aren't knurled and they slip everytime I hit a bad bump.

Any one piece top clamp should work as long as the bars stepdown to 1" otherwise you'll need a top clamp to fit 1.25" bars.

ShortFatMexican 06-26-2011 03:04 PM

Thanks SC. Didn't mean to hijack the thread....

paintwolf 04-18-2014 02:13 PM

Hello, I have read through all of the suggestions, just wondering if high strength Loctite applied to the clamping area would work. If done right would be invisible and permanent, while still allowing for removal in the future.


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