Did you ever pull the plugs to see how they are burning? Could be a bad coil causing intermittent spark issues....

 

Forgot to include that...I did pull the plugs and the inside part was white, not burnt, no fouling at all. I replaced them 2 months ago and they basically look new. I think the next time it sputters I'll pull over and check them and see what I find. I really need to isolate this down to either fuel problem or electrical. All lights and gauges work during the sputters and when it dies. The one thing I haven't checked is fuel pressure. I don't have that fancy attachment HD makes to hook to the tank outlet to measure this.

 

You have a Tmax installed, what do the AFR charts look like around time of issue? The Tmax should store information you could check to help diagnose this issue. Example If you are finding very lean spikes I would check them injector wires very close. I know you mentioned checking them but not sure how close.
I had these symptoms with a DTT TCFI III which did not set the code for the rear injector open. It did not set the code because they do not monitor it like the stock ecu did. Not sure if the Tmax monitors injectors or not.
My injector wire was broken inside the insulation inside the connector. Found it when I removed the wire from plastic housing, very limp in one spot and pulled apart.
Anyway the stored charts in the Tmax can help diagnose the issue such as drastic changes in CPS info with no throttle position change. If you understand how things work together those charts are great for diagnosis.

Hope you get it figured out soon.

 

Have you called Zippers tech support? 410-579-2828 x120. Randy has been very helpful to me whenever I talk to him. You can also email your map to them, if you haven't done that already. There's a form on their website.

 

I barely made it back home last night from a ride. I hooked up the laptop and did a Monitor Log and went back out. It died on me twice during the log. I've looked over the log and transmit it to Thundermax. Randy is gone today I guess. Anything in particular I can look at and relay here to get help? I do notice that when it dies or slightly before, my RAW EGO REAR number shoots up from 704 to 850 or higher, and then the next number that changes right after that is my INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE which falls from 16% to 3.5%. I mean the engine just cuts out on me at 60 mph at random times. I have to cycle the RUN switch and bump start it as I slow down, or pull over and do that. Cycling the RUN switch has to be done almost everytime it happens. Makes me think it's a sensor now. What other info can I give you from the monitor session when it's dying?

 

Not familiar with the Tmax specs. What is the RAW EGO? Guessing raw Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor and the readings 704 and 850 are lamda readings? Which translate to a AFR, does your chart not translate that? Guessing here but a lambda range of .8 to 1.5 (800-1500) .8(800) being on the rich end and 1(1000) being stoich or 14.7:1 ratio.
This would explain the injector duty cycle going from 16% to 3.5% to fix a rich reading condition.

You may have a false reading O2 sensor causing the system to lean itself out. This would make sense with each flip of the run switch you reset the system and it runs open loop for awhile before going closed loop. This time frame in a Tmax I do not know.
Could try going in and shutting off the closed loop and have it run purely off charts in open loop. If runs good then need new O2 sensors.

 

for the hell of it check your bolts holding your pipes to the heads i am working on a similar problem, but i only have the sputter just of idle. my bolts were loose and the pipe smelled really funny inside like really unburned fuel. i think i may have had false o2 sensor readings suckin air in. hey what the hell its worth a shot henry

 

Don't know much about the Thundermax but triple check and make sure your Throttle Position Sensor and your relays. Sounds electrical I just fixed a bike for a bud who has an 08 Streetbob with a fuel pak and the problem turned out to be that when he entered all the codes for the modules he did not calibrated his throttle causing his bike to act similar. I fixed his issue and has no problem since. FYI for TBW you dont need to do this

 

I don't know if you've done this yet, but there is a check for the sensors. When you link to the bike with the engine off and monitor the gauges, both O2 sensor gauges should read 19.36

 

I'm at my end with this gremlin. I've cleaned every fuse, reinstalled intake in case a leak, cleaned fuses and applied dielectric grease on every connection on the bike I could get to. Replaced the Crank Position Sensor, the O2 sensors, the System Relay fuse, reconnected the ECM plug, added EFI system cleaner, ran multiple tanks of good gas, checked spark plugs and they were good, pulled the tank and looked at the EFI wires and released any tension...no crimps or breaks I could see and they pass the wiggle test when idling and me pushing them around and pulling them. Replaced Fuel filter, checked internal fuel hoses for leaks, ran a fuel pressure test which was good, took apart my right handle bar switch housing looking for pinches or exposed wires, downloaded basemaps and applied, reinitialized the Thundermax ECM multiple times, even sent a monitor log to them showing the problem. They said it MIGHT be 12V interuption somewhere. I've even replaced the battery!

What else can I do? I'm stuck...

Is there anything up front down low (where the crank sensor and voltage regulator are in front of the oil filter) that would cause issues like this? Lately it dies when slowing for a stop. Fires right back up though each time. Sometimes it'll still die when decelerating letting off the throttle. Other times right after I crack the throttle open after cruising a while. Just straight DEAD when it dies. I wait a few seconds and can bump start it without cycling the RUN switch now. So probably isn't resetting any sensors now. I think it's the ECM.