Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Also it is pure BS that anti-seize will "over torque". The proper torque setting on the torque wrench will result in the precise and correct torque. Every time all the time. Internet myth
Antiseize will not cause "overtorqe" BUT IT WILL CAUSE OVERTIGHT! If you put antiseize on threads it reduces friction. If you tighten to the same torque recommended for dry threads, they will be overtightened. Often times it doesn't hurt anything, but I've seen fasteners broken and threads pulled out due to this.
That being said, if the factory service manual specifically states to put antiseize on and torque, their torque spec is for lubricated threads, so it isn't an issue.
Antiseize will not cause "overtorqe" BUT IT WILL CAUSE OVERTIGHT! If you put antiseize on threads it reduces friction. If you tighten to the same torque recommended for dry threads, they will be overtightened. Often times it doesn't hurt anything, but I've seen fasteners broken and threads pulled out due to this.
That being said, if the factory service manual specifically states to put antiseize on and torque, their torque spec is for lubricated threads, so it isn't an issue.
Would you use the hand tight + 1/4 turn method here rather than a cheap torque wrench? I'd feel much safer personally but many don't have expensive torque wrenches in such low measures.
Also it is pure BS that anti-seize will "over torque". The proper torque setting on the torque wrench will result in the precise and correct torque. Every time all the time. Internet myth
It ain't that simple. If the torque specified is "dry torque" and you grease the threads with anything the tension in the fastener will be much higher if you use the same torque setting. This is how bolts, wheel studs, etc get broken.
Torque is an indirect indication of the tension in the fastener. If you artificially reduce the friction, the tension in the fastener will be higher to compensate. If you don't believe it, try it. See how much torque it takes to snap a fastener dry, then repeat the test with anti-sieze on the threads.
Exactly! If you look a the chart above, you see that for this particular fastener and torque, dry zinc plated threads nets you about 12,500 psi in the fastener, whereas copper anti-seize nets you close to 27,500 psi, more than twice as much!
Finger tight plus 1/4 turn (or whatever) gets you the same tension regardless of the conditions.
Exactly! If you look a the chart above, you see that for this particular fastener and torque, dry zinc plated threads nets you about 12,500 psi in the fastener, whereas copper anti-seize nets you close to 27,500 psi, more than twice as much!
Finger tight plus 1/4 turn (or whatever) gets you the same tension regardless of the conditions.
I always use anti seize on sparkplugs. Used to crew chief a Porsche in TransAm, learned to use it way back then. You can usually get a little fast food ketchup packet size anti seize packet at the auto parts stores for a buck. I have a 6 or 8 ounce container of the stuff which is a lifetime supply. I have used it to assemble tight fitting exhausts and it definitely makes slipping them on easier. I also use it when I attach a brake caliper because its a steel bolt threaded into an alloy caliper. You can cut corners when you are wrenching and get away with it but you strip the plug threads out of a head and you will be one unhappy camper.
10-07-2018, 06:52 AM
