Seriously, the service manual didn't teach me anything about disassembling the front end. It's pretty straight forward.


1- remove caliper.
2- loosen axle holder using 5mm allen wrench.
2a- elevate the front end of the bike.
3- remove axle / wheel.
4- loosen damper bolt using napa 12mm allen. Do not forget drain pan in place before loosening.
5- Remove fender
6- Remove fork lower cap (usually chrome) using an awl or flat screwdriver.
7- remove dust cover.
8- remove retaining ring using flathead screwdriver (small)
9- At this point, you can use the lower as a sort of slide hammer going up and down on the leg with some force. Eventually the slide action will knock out the fork seal and your lower will be free from the leg. ***TIP: Before starting this step move the drain pan. Ask me how I know.
10- repeat steps 4-9 for other lower.
11- depending how far you are going, you can remove the fork caps (on top of the tree). Be careful here as they have a good amount of pressure on them from the fork spring. Keep a fair amount of your body weight onto the cap or when it comes loose, it'll go flying. They are solid and hurt when they impact the body/head/face. Ask me how I know.
12- To remove the legs from the trees, you need a T-27 torx bit. I won't be surprised if one or more of them strip out as the bolts have white lok-tite on them. I replaced mine with chrome 3/8"x1.5" long allen bolts.

I think I got the order in which I perform this correct.

You do not need an air wrench to get the damper bolt out. As long as you leave the fork intact (cap installed with fork springs) the preload will hold the damper rod in place. Same thing when reinstalling the bolts. Make sure you reassemble the fork springs/spacer/cap before reinstalling the damper bolt.

On that damper bolt there is a copper washer. I'd buy two replacements before starting this.

 

I posted this on another thread for the slider assemblies

Jack up the bike and secure!
Cover the tank!
Pull the caliper.
Pull the fender.
Pull the wheel.
Loosen the the top fork caps and using the proper "fork cap" socket is a plus.
Loosen the lower Damper tube bolt.
With a soft punch pop the chrome dust covers off.
Remove the slider from the triple and disassemble it away from the bike.
Much easier to remove the the fork cap with it removed from the bike by keeping pressure on the cap while you turn the fork tube, make sure you have a rag under the lower housing.
Have a container ready to empty the fluid out and note the position of the spacers, washer and orientation of the spring and empty.
Remove the dust seal and retaining spring.
Remove the lower damper tube bolt and turn it upside down and remove the damper tube and the rest of the oil.
Using the slider as a slide hammer, knock out the bushing spacer and seal note the orientation of the washer/spacer.
I recommend replacing the slider bushings 1) you are here 2) mileage? and also the damper tube since you can't get the seals separately.
Clean all the crap out of the fork lower and slider with solvent and let dry.

(Use a little fork oil when assembling)
Install damper tube oil lock that fits in the bottom of the lower.
Install new slider bushing.
Install the new damper tube and top out spring into the slider
Install the slider into the lower carefully engaging the damper tube in the oil lock.
Install damper tube bolt with new washer and snug.
Install new bushing using spacer and piece of correct size tubing.
Install seal using tubing the matches the OD of the seal.
Install snap ring.
Install dust seal.
Install chrome cover.
Fill fork to spec and pump up and down several times.
Install fork spring.
Install spacer washer.
Install spacer tube.
Install fork cap.
Reassemble slider in triple and torque .
Torque fork cap and damper tube tube bolt.
Repeat other side.
Reassemble wheel, fender and caliper.
Manual does help!!!!
It is not hard, just take your time and pay attention to detail and a second set of hands is a Plus.

Since you are doing the triples I would remove the tank for protection and for easy access to the wire connectors.

You can Remove the tank bolts slide the tank back and prop it up, but if you do, make sure you disconnect the quick disconnect fuel line at the tank and put a heavy cloth down on the rocker covers so you don't scratch them

Disconnect the battery [if you need to take the connectors apart]
Remove plastic cover under the backbone at the neck
Find and disconnect the Right and Left hand control connectors
Remove the grommets on each side of the frame at the neck
Pull the connectors out through the frame
[If memory serves me the connectors won't fit through the upper triple clamp
Diagram the color/pin #s on a piece of paper and disassemble the connectors
SC posted a video on how to disassemble] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52clbzQ2reg
[Mud posted some disassembly photos too, but I could not find?]
[Others have posted the connectors fit through the upper clamp?]
Pull the wire looms up through the top triple tree
Remove brake line bracket screw on upper t-clamp
Remove brake line bracket Allen bolt on lower t-clamp
Remove ground strap
Remove Head lamp bolt clamp bolt on lower t-clamp and set aside
Remover the 2 riser bolts from under the top triple and set bars back out of the way
Remove chrome stem nut cover
Remove Stem nut, washer and upper t-clamp
Remove adjuster, spacer and bearing
Slide lower t-clamp down and out
Slide bearing off stem
Clean, dry and repack bearings
Reassemble in reverse order
Get Manual! and make sure you torque fasteners to spec and follow procedure to set fall away