I'm really feeling your springer front end. I was thinking about doing the same thing but since you've already done it I guess I'll have to go with the 53mm inverted black powder coated one.

 

It is SUPER SIMPLE to pull the wires from the connector and put them back in. It literally takes all of 20 seconds to take 6 wires out of the connector and then another 40 to put them back in. There's nothing to screw up. All you do is lift a little tab for each wire and pull it out like butter.

As mentioned in another post...why cut them if you don't have to? It is another point of potential failure. If you use the wire extension kit I mentioned above it is extremely easy and straight forward. All of your connections are rock solid and will not fail in the future.

 

Where is it the web of Novello wire extensions?

 

You can get them from Drag Specialties.

 

Or here.

Whiff

 

I am not doing job just yet will have couple good days of good weather coming. I am still using the chrome drag bars on it, just doing a cleanup. When you say to unhook harness, is there just couple lines to disconnect for the controls to get connection out to disconnect?

 

I hope I'm actually answering your question here. I'll probably "dumb it down" way too much. Don't take it personal, I'm only doing it to make certain I cover your question.

There is a wire bundle with a plastic connector for the left hand controls (horn, high beam, blinker, etc). There is another bundle of wires with a plastic connector for the right side. Both of these plastic connectors plug into the main wiring harness. Those plastic connectors will not fit through the bars, so in order to run the wires through the bars, you need to get the wires out of the connectors.

For every type of connector used on the bike, the service manual shows the procedure for doing this. For most connector types, it is pretty simple. The wires all have pins on the end that lock into the connectors. Follow the instructions and remove the individual wires (pins) from the connectors. You then run the wire bundles through the bars and when you're done, reassemble the connector and plug it back in.

For my bike, it was an 6 pin connector for the left controls and an 6 pin connector for the right. Here's what one of the connectors looks like for my bike:
Gray connector unplugged
Here's a picture of disassembling the a similar connector:
Disassembling a connector
And here are both left and right wire bundles with the wires/pins already removed from the connector:
Wires and pins loose

Kevin

 

Doesn't drilling your bars screw up the integrity of your bars?
[align=left] [/align]

 

Drilling your bars is no different than buying them drilled. I think everyone who's given advice has an 06 or newer dyna. 05 and older is different and way harder. The idea is basically the same but there's only one hole in the frame and the plug is about 6 inches back (and there is no slack in the harness)
You need to pull out the square rubber plug in front of the rear wheel on the inside of the fender(it's easier to do if you remove the wheel but not impossible but you will probably cut up your hands) Once the plug is out you can feel the wiring harness which is stuffed into the backbone of the frame. There's an extra loop of wire in here. You need to pull out this extra wire and straighten it and then have one person push the wire from the back while someone else is pulling on the harness from the front....now that you've got the extra wire you can push the harness forward and eventually you'll see your plug...now you're golden. Unplug, then remove the pins from the plug and pull through your bars.

Good luck

 

If you do drill your bars, use a dremel tool to bevel the edges of the holes inside and out so that vibration doesn't cause a sharp edge to saw through the wiring insulation. With the stock 1" bars, I relocated the turn signals to the lower tree first (cause I like that look) which made things easier cause there was less to try and fit inside the bars. Don't make your holes larger than 3/8" but you can make the two in the center into one oval slot. I would NOT drill the stock bars if you have risers with seperate top caps. A one piece top cap will eliminate torsional stress in the area of the hole and prevent your bars from potentialy cracking at the center.