HELP: Slashed Wire while installing bars- bike won't start!
 

Well,
My intentions were to install my new Todd Cycle 10" Strip apes on my '06 Bob. Early on I decided that conquering the internal wiring seemed ambitious for the 2 hours I had to do with my help (neither of us had done this before). So we decided to keep wiring external for time being. Problem is we didn't realize that it was not possible due to lack of recess under bottom of bars to accommodate electrical wire thickness by housings. As a result, as we tightened the housing, the sharp edge where internal wires enter the bars actually sliced into the wire wrap and cut 3 wires clean through on left side. It turns out that the headlight will not turn on but left turn signal will. I was feeling ok with that until I tried to fire up the bike and it would not turn over. Electrical started flashing (almost like fighting for battery) and sound like little gunshots.

Can anybody help me shed some light on this? I'm not surpised the headlight didn't work but I expected it to start as nothing on the right housing throttle side seemed to be compromised (unless i missed it).

thanks for any advice

This may be a stupid question why have you not taken some wire and lengthend the loom by soldering in a new piece of wire and sleve it with some heat shrink, Or as a temp fix use crimps instead of solder ??

Like i said could be a stupid question

yes, that is the next logical step. never done it before but i got nothing to lose now.

still not sure why bike won't start when it seems like only the turn signals and headlight wires were compromised.

It's because your electrical system is shorting out. It all comes from one battery. Stop trying to start it and fix the wires before you melt some other connections somewhere else or do damage to your fuse box.

+1 What he said

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thanks guys

Because for 10" bars, that isn't necessary. There is PLENTY of harness (48" if I remember) available to handle that height. I installed 16" apes and did not extend the harness. It was snug but worked fine for well over a year. When I changed my bars I did extend the harness a bit just for piece of mind.

You're saying in a vibration, jolting situation crimps are stronger than a *good* solder joint? C'mon.

I would say a solder joint and quality heat shrink over the joint would be the best because it would help seal the joint from moisture.

Check fuses mate. If you've shorted you've probably blown fuses so bike won't start.