(APOLOGIES IN ADVANCE FOR LONG READING BUT I WANT TO GO INTO AS MUCH DETAIL AS POSSIBLE)

This will be a write up on how to fix these know issues with 06 Street bobs and a few other upgrades for as CHEAP as possible. I'm looking at Replacing IPB bearing, fixing stator, and putting in a 30t sprocket for under 300$ I will be going into much detail as possible to help people do this job, I feel there are alot of good post on this topic, but they are spread out all over the internet. Hopefully this can answer all questions about this process for people on a budget.

So I bought an 06 SB about 3 months ago, found out about the infamous IPB bearing and stator problem a week after I got it. I've been doin tons and tons of research on this for the past couple months, and since I've been unable to ride these past few weeks due to Knee surgery I decided to Bite the bullet and crack open the primary today.

I found out about the andrews 30T mainshaft sprocket about a week ago and I figured what the hell, now will be the best time to do it so I ordered one.

I don't have the money for all the specialty tools such a race puller, basket locking tool (what a joke) and the mainshaft removal tool. So I will be making my own tools for next to nothing to do the job.

I have been taking plenty of pictures and I will post them all with directions on how to do the job as soon as its done.

BTW I have 11,000 miles on bike. It was manufactured in march 2006. I would like to report (although a little disappointing) That the IPB and race looked fine and all the bolts on the stator which are known to back out were still very much in place.
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Here is the part list you will need

Baker High torque Bearing kit PN 189-56 (paid 40$)
http://bakerdrivetrain.com/high-torque-bearing-kit
Directions on installing Bearing
http://bakerdrivetrain.com/wp-conten...-V2-081712.pdf

30t Andrews Sprocket (114$)
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...ULLEY&CartID=1

Primary Gasket kit ($44)
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/...tm?Click=35177
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Tools Needed

Standard allen key set
22 or 21mm socket?? Not sure check again tomorrow
2 1/4 Socket Custom made (show pics tomorrow)
Impact wrench
Breaker bar
Ratchet set
30 rack of bud light
Red lock tight

Thats about it...
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I will have a full write up by sunday. Got everything disassembled today, assembled tomorrow.

Thanks for reading, any questions feel free to message me here or email me
Gatone13@gmail.com

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Ok so as promised here are some pics, I put some key notes with each Picture, hope this helps and remember This is how I did it, make sure you use a manual because I may not be 100% on everything



First things first. Drain the primary, then take out the primary bolts.




Once the primary cover is off next step is to zip tie the chain tensioners so you can put them back in same place. Alot of people have upgraded to the SE Chain tensioner, I didn't. Oh well. Then unbolt the two bolts, should slide right out afterwards




Ok with these two bolts make sure you pay attention to thread direction. Double check your manual. Also in this picture the on the clutch basket the locknut is behind that retaining plate. Just take that bolt off, then take off the retaining ring and the retaining plate should come out. behind that is the mainshaft nut that you are after. It is a bitch to get off.. take an impact gun to it (MAKE SURE YOU DOUBLE CHECK THE THREADS) and it should come off.




This is my "125 $" locking tool worked like a charm Stops them from spinning when your trying to take compensator nut and mainshaft nut off. I took the clutch basket and front sprocket off with the chain still around it.. Took a little wiggling then it slid off.



Next you will have to unbolt your startor. This is how I did it. It is unnecessary to unbolt battery tray and all that crap. Just 2 bolts hold startor to IP




Remove the 5 retaining bolts. Then throw them in the trash. you need new ones. Then off comes the Inner Primary




Stator, Got this off by giving it a little tug, just be careful of the threads.




Rotor, Pretty clean. Happy to find it in one piece..




Ah these little sons of a bitches, reason I did this in first place. Aren't going anywhere anymore.




your gonna need these to swap out the inner primary Bearing. Place the inner primary ontop of YOUR MANUAL and have a 2" socket under the primary where you will be hitting the bearing out. This way you wont break the casting and the impact will only be hitting the bearing. Do the same to put new one in.
Am I the only one who hates retaining rings???




mhmm... Btw didn't have a picture off it, but i took a cutting wheel to the race. Had it off in a few seconds. no need for race puller. Just be mindful of the mainshaft.




Yup important. This was why the bearings failed in the first place.



Now for mainshaft sprocket swap. Once you have inner primary off you have access to the sprocket. Take the two retaining bolts out and the lockplate will fall out. Now for the sprocket nut. You will need a 2 1/4 deep socket special tool to get to this. Next pic shows one i made for 20 bucks. cut socket in half weld pipe in middle boom done. Harley manual says you need a locking tool for this as well. I didn't. Hit it with impact gun, then breaker bar, then impact gun again and came right off. swap out sprocket. then reverse order for assembly. You can use the same belt (if its still good) but it will fit. Just move rear wheel back.




Reverse for install... Double check thread direction and torque specs, Also replace the gasket for inner primary.




Yup.





After you do this check your clutch... Adjust it if necessary. Once thats good place the outer primary back on and make sure you replace gasket.




Hope this helps guys.

 

I have done all those upgrades and know what and what not to do....if you want a hand or need some advice let me know.....I'm in IB about a 45 min ride away.

edit.....easy with the red loctitie..........

edit again...get the tri glide 30 tooth instead of the Andrews.......around $47.00 instead of the $114.00. You said "for as CHEAP as possible"

 

Are you sure the IPB hasn't already been replaced?

 

yup i just got a call yesterday from folsom hd that they will take careof the whole inner and trany casing, wat i forgot to mention was if they would take care of the stator problem..... will have to calll back

 

Sounds like your on the right track. I would keep the stock rotor and replace the bolts then spot weld it togather. Its been done before. The Baker kit is the way to go but the bearing and seal can be purchased at an auto parts store for around 30 bucks.

 

Welded my rotor and replaced the bearing. You may want to look at replacing the chain tensioner. There is an updated model avaable and it's not too pricey. I also have the bearing and seal numbers is you want to get them from a bearing supplier.

 

I went with the All ***** Racing double-row/angular bearing when my IPB race cracked/walked, but Baker Hi-Torque is excellent as well.

Just curious. If the IPB/Race & stator were fine upon teardown, why did you tear into it in first place? Was it leaking?

Are you gonna remove one/both side seals? Or leave it sealed? I removed both on the All *****. To maximize lube to my *****

 

Take a look at the tranny main shaft double bearing. The plastic bearing carrier breaks down and leaves plastic chunks inside. I was lucky and the ***** remained in the bearing.
It has been a common '06 problem

 

I figured why wait for a known problem to happen when I can fix it on my terms. Much rather take care of it now than have it break down on the road and be forced to pay out the *** to get it fixed and like I said was doing a sprocket swap so not to do it would be sorta silly

 

Welded the bolts today, that and swapping the sprocket is all I got accomplished today