Polishing fork lowers
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 477
Likes: 8
From: Kennedale,Tx
Polishing fork lowers
Saw other post and pictures on this subject so one rainy sat. thought I would give it a shot.
The hardest part, is cleaning up the castings at the caliper and fender mounts with a fine file and then sanding smooth. On the first lower, I dry sanded the whole leg then wet sanded #400, #600 and finished with #800. Polished with mothers and a polishing ball.
The other lower I started with #200 wet on down to the #800. Seemed like it went faster. Dosen't look like chromed lowers, but better than the clear coat that was showing its age. This is a cheap thing to do to the front end of the bike, and take but about 3 hours.
I wish I knew how to post pictures but I don't.
The hardest part, is cleaning up the castings at the caliper and fender mounts with a fine file and then sanding smooth. On the first lower, I dry sanded the whole leg then wet sanded #400, #600 and finished with #800. Polished with mothers and a polishing ball.
The other lower I started with #200 wet on down to the #800. Seemed like it went faster. Dosen't look like chromed lowers, but better than the clear coat that was showing its age. This is a cheap thing to do to the front end of the bike, and take but about 3 hours.
I wish I knew how to post pictures but I don't.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,403
Likes: 72
From: North Dakota
I went the chemical paint remover process (20 minutes) then hit them with the polishing wheel (about 20 minutes each). This picture is a year later and have done nothing to them other than soap and water.
Tourer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 379
Likes: 4
From: Pittsburgh,PA
What cleaner did you use?
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,403
Likes: 72
From: North Dakota
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=234
I also used it on my cam cover and primary cover, though those pieces required hours of sanding. H-D saves a ton of $$ painting the engines black. I'll tell you, the aluminum under there looks like crap. All pitted and rough.
I also used it on my cam cover and primary cover, though those pieces required hours of sanding. H-D saves a ton of $$ painting the engines black. I'll tell you, the aluminum under there looks like crap. All pitted and rough.
Last edited by AFMM3; Oct 14, 2012 at 11:17 AM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,114
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 428
Likes: 21
From: Western PA
Thanks for the post and the pics. Winter project - I'm doing dual-discs with V-Rod lowers on my Wide Glide, and the lowers could use a shine.
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 6
From: bfe
i pull the legs and use baldor buffers starting at 240 grit and go up ending with stissle wheel why do you chemical strip first ? oh and it takes about 10 minutes for me to do both legs
10 min... wow i have professional equipment and I spend an hour at least per leg. i chem strip them to remove the clear that factory HD lowers have on them.
good show polish takes time man... i have over 100 hours in this bike
good show polish takes time man... i have over 100 hours in this bike