Joe, your killin me dood! That looks great!

But there is no bearing on that lower triple clamp and that is what I meant. Does that just pop off the stem by hand or light tool? Or is the bearing a pain to remove from the stem like a Jap bike

 

What bars arw the ones installed on this bik? These are they style i want, ive seen similar styled one but i dont like how narrow they are at the base of the. Ars, these r perfect

 

parts... they are not to bad you can heat them and remove them simple enough, then just replace when done... i use a press to install the new one, but a good trick is to put the tree in the freezer, and then keep the bearing warm, slides right on


Todds Cycle 12's

 

appliance epoxy /win. Thanks again JRK for your thread

 

I prefer PC

 

Bumping an old thread because I just tackled setting up a set of these fork legs. They do require special tooling and knowledge to set them up properly. Race Tech was of no assistance with good info on setting up proper preload, so my experience setting up my new .95 KG straight rate springs required 2 different length of spacers and fork legs installed twice before I found the magic spacer length number to get my sag level where I wanted it. This was because the Race Tech springs were not the same length as the OEM springs, and Race Tech had no clue on a base line setup. They guessed, and there guess was wrong. I did some of my own math, and came up with my own spacer length.

Once I achieved the proper ride height with my new springs, I was ready to tear down my forks all the way for PC. I will post more pics tomorrow. Here is a pic of the compressor tool I bought and used. The silver spacer shown here, has to be remade out of the supplied PVC that Race Tech provides with their springs. You also have to drill it for the compressor tool.

 

I ran into something odd while disassembling my forks all the way for powder coat. In the lower fork leg there is a part called the "lower stop" Part #9 shown here (click link) This This part is actually a base valve with 4 oil holes and an O ring that is around the perimeter that seals it into the lower leg, forcing the oil from the cartridge, through the lower Banjo bolt, through the adjuster orifice, through the four oil holes (basically its a critical part in the compression damping). Anyways, when I got to this part of the tear down I ran into an issue. The service manual says DO NOT REMOVE this part and if I do want to remove it, take it to the dealer. Well, off to the dealer I go. My dealer did not have a puller for this part, nor had they ever removed one before.

So, I called Big Als cycle as they have built a load of top notch FXDX's. They said the valve is easily removed and they remove them all of the time. Their method was they had a really long set of needle nose pliers, that they taped the ends of and wiggled them out. I went to 4 different tool stores and every pair of pliers I found wouldnt reach or if they did reach, the handles were too far inside the fork lower to allow opening of the pliers. Here is a pic of the new valves I have waiting to install after I get the legs powdered. Pic in next post.

http://images.imagessite.com/OEM_IMA...HD00FXD032.gif

 

Lower stop AKA the base valves I need to remove. These are new ones I have and the pics are taken to show what I need to remove from my lower legs. The Banjo bolt that goes through the bottom of the leg, then through this, and threads into the damping cartridge. The HD service manual says this is "pressed" into the lower leg, but from what it looks like to me and what the fella at Big Als said its just the o ring holding it in the lower.