Front wheel bearings
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 499
Likes: 1
From: Herrin, Illinois
**** that is more than likely my issue. So it will protrude towards the spacer then?
Edit: Never mind I see what you mean. My axle cap does not have the protrusion on it. I just made it even front and back. I'll shim the right side of the axle and call it a day.
Thank you for all the help, I was extremely frustrated earlier. Now I need to figure out why my low beam doesn't work all of a sudden. Tried multiple lights, hi only.
Edit: Never mind I see what you mean. My axle cap does not have the protrusion on it. I just made it even front and back. I'll shim the right side of the axle and call it a day.
Thank you for all the help, I was extremely frustrated earlier. Now I need to figure out why my low beam doesn't work all of a sudden. Tried multiple lights, hi only.
Last edited by milesvdustin; Apr 21, 2013 at 01:06 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,544
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From: Honah Lee
Make it work like this. Would think your original inner spacer would be correct. Outers custom. You need to understand it 100% or see a pro. You do not want the front or rear wheel bearings going out.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:31 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 499
Likes: 1
From: Herrin, Illinois
I installed the right bearing all the way in and then snugged the brake side in against the spacer. Not sure if it bottomed out in the bore. I still have it apart ill check it tomorrow and measure. I want that left bearing about 1/8" out from the counterbore then? I may need a 1/8" longer spacer. That would take up the slack and keep my sliders from pulling inwards when I tighten the axle. But my brake won't be aligned anymore I don't think.......
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,544
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From: Honah Lee
Normally and in the 2008 service manual for your bike, the first bearing in is always on the brake rotor side and if two rotors are on the wheel, the left side. One bearing should not bottom in bore. If you study my attachment you will see that the axle torque is thru the inner spacers and races. If the inner spacer is too short and allowed the bearing outer race to the bottom, there would or could be a space so the inner long spacer could simple move along the axle side to side. What ever this gap is, when you torque the axle nut it would push thru the inner race and put tremendous side load on ***** in the bearing and they would overheat and could lock up or break up wrecking the bike. Study my picture. It's a lot clearer and makes more since on the rear, or like my bike where you actually have a nut on both sides of the axle, but your system is the same.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 21, 2013 at 08:19 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 499
Likes: 1
From: Herrin, Illinois
I see what you are saying. I think the right bearing wouldn't go in all the way as my wheel is properly spaced with the left all the way in. I'm going to take it apart again today and make sure the spacer and all is correct, for peace of mind.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 499
Likes: 1
From: Herrin, Illinois
I understand how the damn thing works in theory now after hours and hours of searching.
The axle has a raised ridge that the right side spacer butts up against. When you tighten the axle nut, the spacers, center bearing races and bearing spacer take up all the lateral slack. The left bearing goes all the way in the hub, because that spaces the brake disc properly, while the bearing spacer determines how deep the right bearing goes in the hub and ultimately how far the axle moves left as you tighten the nut until the spacer stops on the ridge of the axle. Once the axle nut is tight, the slider cap is torqued the hold the axle on, with the edge of the hole lining up with the edge of the slider.
Phew, that's a mouthful. But I finally figured it out, so huge thanks to those that helped. If you make it to pensacola or thunder beach, I owe you a few beers!
The axle has a raised ridge that the right side spacer butts up against. When you tighten the axle nut, the spacers, center bearing races and bearing spacer take up all the lateral slack. The left bearing goes all the way in the hub, because that spaces the brake disc properly, while the bearing spacer determines how deep the right bearing goes in the hub and ultimately how far the axle moves left as you tighten the nut until the spacer stops on the ridge of the axle. Once the axle nut is tight, the slider cap is torqued the hold the axle on, with the edge of the hole lining up with the edge of the slider.
Phew, that's a mouthful. But I finally figured it out, so huge thanks to those that helped. If you make it to pensacola or thunder beach, I owe you a few beers!
Devil's Advocate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 36
From: Alberta, Canada
Sorry, I was out.
Attached is a picture of what you just described. There should be a space between axle ridge where spacer butts up against and fork.
Second picture is of the axle cap showing what the built in spacer looks like and its positioning.
These are pictures from an 07 FXDB manual. The older bikes had the same theory, but the axle was designed differently.
My bearings are seated all the way in with the axle sleeve holding the bearing centers from having any excess pressure from the axle being torqued down.
Attached is a picture of what you just described. There should be a space between axle ridge where spacer butts up against and fork.
Second picture is of the axle cap showing what the built in spacer looks like and its positioning.
These are pictures from an 07 FXDB manual. The older bikes had the same theory, but the axle was designed differently.
My bearings are seated all the way in with the axle sleeve holding the bearing centers from having any excess pressure from the axle being torqued down.
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Devil's Advocate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 36
From: Alberta, Canada
Yes sir. Do you have a manual? It is all explained step by step.
It took me a bit of measuring and advice to get all of the right parts to fit properly. The manual was a great help in putting everything together properly.
The picture in my above post shows you the edge of the axle meeting the spacer and the gap or space left between that and the fork. If you got it all together properly, there is no pressure aligning the fork with the drill bit. Did you identify the built in spacer on the fork cap? If you did, did you put the fork cap on with it to the back of the fork?
Believe it or not, there is supposed to be a gap between fork cap and fork on the front of the joint after torquing.
If you like, I can take a picture of mine, but it looks exactly like the ones I posted from the manual.
It took me a bit of measuring and advice to get all of the right parts to fit properly. The manual was a great help in putting everything together properly.
The picture in my above post shows you the edge of the axle meeting the spacer and the gap or space left between that and the fork. If you got it all together properly, there is no pressure aligning the fork with the drill bit. Did you identify the built in spacer on the fork cap? If you did, did you put the fork cap on with it to the back of the fork?
Believe it or not, there is supposed to be a gap between fork cap and fork on the front of the joint after torquing.
If you like, I can take a picture of mine, but it looks exactly like the ones I posted from the manual.
Last edited by Gommee; Apr 21, 2013 at 05:30 PM.