Alright!!!-- I have been going crazy trying to solve the no combustion codes (p1353, 1356) for months now on my 04 FXDLI-finally got it!!I did relay check, plugs, plug wires, tested coil, checked wiring harness and remapped my PCIII -still had a problem with bike cutting out or lugging at 2500 rpm/25% throttle----drove me nuts--I then started on the fuel pump and after changing filter, pressure regulator and a leaking quick disconnect the bike still had the problem--so I then took another look at the fuel pump and discovered the in-tank fuel line from the pump to regulator/filter had the infamous pinhole!!! I missed seeing it the first time but there it was! bought the gates 5/16 line , installed it and Whoopee--bike now starts quick, and runs great----Just thought I'd let you guys know

 

Thanks for sharing; I'll tuck this one away, in case I need in the future.

 

I throw the rear cylinder combustion code every time I twist full throttle, It doesnt miss or skip a beat just throws the light and the code. Been doing it for years I was blaming it on after market plug wires. Might have to look at your resolution..
Thanks

 

I had been have the same problem (p1356) for several years with my 05 FXDLI (w/SE Cam/race tuner). It would come on when accelerating hard and go off when you let off on the throttle. Also, it would come on and fade off especially when the bike was ridden a good distance. My local tech (who is a member of HDForums) suggested we change the spark plug wires to the SE model and the plugs as well. He changes them at my 5K services anyway. He changed the wires and said the plugs were fine. I have ridden about 1K miles since-short trips, 2 longer trips riding hard) with no reoccurring codes. Thought this might help for anyone experiencing the annoying code.

 

Glad you got it figured out. I will keep this in mind incase I ever come across the same issues.

 

I continuously had the code 1356 coming up. Nothing helped.
I didn't want to make the effort for the infamous "pin hole" in the internal fuel line and didn't believe that was the cause. If the pin hole was on the high pressure side wouldn't the fuel pump run occasionally with the bike just sitting there? If the pin hole was on the suction side wouldn't a full tank of gas solve the problem. I didn't excuse this solution but didn't want to commit to it without playing around first.
The solution that you have to run Harley plugs also sounded like bull. I figured I'd eventually try this solution but once again I didn't believe it.
Turns out I lifted the seat off to check connections and clean them up. Upon doing that I noticed a device which is clipped in the frame which says not to reposition. I removed it, cleaned the connection and reinstalled. I'm assuming that this device senses what position the motorcycle is in, some kind of mercury switch maybe? After playing with the device my code did not come back. After about a week, the code came back. I still believed the problem to be this switch which once again I'm assuming to be some kind of positioning switch. Being lazy, I just held the front brake on and pushed on the front end several times so the bike would bob up and down several times. This will move the switch if it is in fact sticking. I haven't had the code come back for months now. Also my bike used to idle high when first started occasionally. This doesn't happen either any more. When I feel like playing again I'm going to try opening up that switch and repairing it but for now NO CODES.
If you have this problem, clear your codes, then try bobbing the front end as I described. It sounds stupid but it's free. See if this keeps your code from coming back. Like I said, I couldn't ride without that damn code. Now NO CODES. Bob the bike a couple of times before starting. I will repair eventually.

 

My 2011 Street Glide, w/36K miles, is having the exact symptoms you describe.

How did you finally discover that it was a pinhole leak in the fuel line? Did you find the leak by a simple visual inspection, or some other method?

Thanks

 

I believe there is a section in the factory service manual on how to test the pump, leaks etc....

 

Thanks, good info.

 

I saw where just tightening the top screws of the spark plugs would work and after I did it the the P1353 code disappeared.