Lets talk exhaust/Tune(Baffles needed for F.I?)
#1
Lets talk exhaust/Tune(Baffles needed for F.I?)
Well I just got this 07 Superglide and the bike has S&S slip on mufflers with non-removable baffles. I think the bike sounds good but definitely a bit quite for my liking, especially transitioning from my 02' 1200 sporty with no baffles in Vance Hines straight shots.
Soo.. Is it recommended for these fuel injected bikes to have baffles in the pipes or can they be run without them. I plan on getting the same hines pipes for this bike without the baffles. I know theres always debates on every forum in america about backpressure and baffles but what do you guys think.Anyone run these fuel inj. bikes without the baffles and just tune them with a power cammandor.
As for the tune, I would much rather buy a tune kit myself then take it somewhere for a tune after I put a K&N and exhaust on her.
Whats a good tuning kit for these simple bolt ons? (power cammandor??)
And where can I purchase one.
Soo.. Is it recommended for these fuel injected bikes to have baffles in the pipes or can they be run without them. I plan on getting the same hines pipes for this bike without the baffles. I know theres always debates on every forum in america about backpressure and baffles but what do you guys think.Anyone run these fuel inj. bikes without the baffles and just tune them with a power cammandor.
As for the tune, I would much rather buy a tune kit myself then take it somewhere for a tune after I put a K&N and exhaust on her.
Whats a good tuning kit for these simple bolt ons? (power cammandor??)
And where can I purchase one.
#3
I run straight shots with monster baffles and they sound great and give some back pressure. If you don't get some back pressure u will lose all kinds of low end torque. The monster baffles give you the open pipe sound while keeping the low end. As far as simple stage 1 it's really hard to beat the micro tuner from fuel moto AT $199. If you don't have the filter yet, they will do a package deal for the two. The micro has way more flexibility and adjustability than any of the other tuners in its price range, not to mention full support from FM to help you dial it in.
#4
I'm in the same situation. I got a new 2013 Wide Glide with a Cat in the collector just like the Fat Bob. (Why were we singled out of all the Dyna's?)
So I have on (back)order, a let of Vance and Hines slip-on's.
"Someone" told me they would sound "tinny" and I should get the Rush.
Anyone have real world experience with VH vs Rush on a FB or WG with a Cat?
In any case, trying to get a consistent recommendation from the manufacturer is not easy. Randy, from Rush says get the 2.25 and then later says get a 2.5
So, I don't know what to make of it. Perhaps I could order either and it would not make a bit of difference.
Anyone know for sure? I am looking for a loud deep tone. People told me V&H are not the right pipes for this... that I should get the rush
Here is what I gleaned from other postings (from Rush)
Hi, the 2011 fatbob has a catalytic converter in the headpipes. Because of this I would recommend the 2.25" slip on. The converter will provide the required backpressure so you will not have to do any tuning or change the fuel map. If you do any other upgrades, such as an aircleaner, you will have to get the bike tuned with a fuel management system. I know alot of people who do these types of upgrades immediately on a brand new bike, but your h-d dealer will be your best resource for break-in information.
Thanks for contacting us,
Ryan
__________________
If you have catalytic convertors in the headpipes we recommend the 2.50" baffle with no tuning on a stock bike/engine. If your bike doesn't have catalytic convertors we recommend the 2.00" and tuning usually isn't required but still recommended.
Before the touring bikes utilized the catalytic convertors most dealers recommended the 2.00". Most dealers still recommend the 2.00" for sportster/dyno/softail models.
Since you have a stock 2012 FL we recommend the 2.50" baffle and no tuning is required.
Thanks for contacting us! If the dealer is not budging on their recommendation please PM me their name and I can contact them. Or just tell them to call and speak with Bob or Ryan.
Ryan
So I have on (back)order, a let of Vance and Hines slip-on's.
"Someone" told me they would sound "tinny" and I should get the Rush.
Anyone have real world experience with VH vs Rush on a FB or WG with a Cat?
In any case, trying to get a consistent recommendation from the manufacturer is not easy. Randy, from Rush says get the 2.25 and then later says get a 2.5
So, I don't know what to make of it. Perhaps I could order either and it would not make a bit of difference.
Anyone know for sure? I am looking for a loud deep tone. People told me V&H are not the right pipes for this... that I should get the rush
Here is what I gleaned from other postings (from Rush)
Hi, the 2011 fatbob has a catalytic converter in the headpipes. Because of this I would recommend the 2.25" slip on. The converter will provide the required backpressure so you will not have to do any tuning or change the fuel map. If you do any other upgrades, such as an aircleaner, you will have to get the bike tuned with a fuel management system. I know alot of people who do these types of upgrades immediately on a brand new bike, but your h-d dealer will be your best resource for break-in information.
Thanks for contacting us,
Ryan
__________________
If you have catalytic convertors in the headpipes we recommend the 2.50" baffle with no tuning on a stock bike/engine. If your bike doesn't have catalytic convertors we recommend the 2.00" and tuning usually isn't required but still recommended.
Before the touring bikes utilized the catalytic convertors most dealers recommended the 2.00". Most dealers still recommend the 2.00" for sportster/dyno/softail models.
Since you have a stock 2012 FL we recommend the 2.50" baffle and no tuning is required.
Thanks for contacting us! If the dealer is not budging on their recommendation please PM me their name and I can contact them. Or just tell them to call and speak with Bob or Ryan.
Ryan
Last edited by CoolWideGlideGuy; 09-01-2013 at 11:52 AM.
#5
Good info guys. I checked out the monster baffles on BCT site and they look pretty promising in offering the sound I want with some backpressure.
deuce streetbob. What size outside diameter are your straight shots. Because the straightshots I am looking at are 2.5" I believe.
I looked on BCT monster site and didnt see their baffles offered for a 2.5" outside diameter pipe but could call them to double check.The biggest they have on the site is 2.25 outside diameter.
As far as the tuner, does it come with some sort of standard instructions for tuning your pcm for having exhaust and air filter?? I have no idea of proper fuel and air values to program for the pcm.
deuce streetbob. What size outside diameter are your straight shots. Because the straightshots I am looking at are 2.5" I believe.
I looked on BCT monster site and didnt see their baffles offered for a 2.5" outside diameter pipe but could call them to double check.The biggest they have on the site is 2.25 outside diameter.
As far as the tuner, does it come with some sort of standard instructions for tuning your pcm for having exhaust and air filter?? I have no idea of proper fuel and air values to program for the pcm.
#6
All this talk about back-pressure isn't right, guys. Its a myth. It doesn't work that way.
What you want is no back pressure. You want the exhaust gasses out of the engine, through the pipework and out the back as fast as you can get it to go.
Speed is the important thing here. Have too big an exhaust and the flow speed drops. Think of a fat garden hose with a gentle stream of water. However, partially restrict the end of the hose and the water's velocity goes up a lot.
The challenge is to get the exit the right size. Put a fat exhaust on and the flow speed drops and lower-end rideability suffers. Put too narrow an exhaust on and you get the exhaust speed OK but its too restricted to allow much throughput.
Then there's all the stuff about reversion and pulses bouncing back from the exhaust end but that's getting complicated.
Bottom line: Have too fat an exhaust and the flow speed drops, especially at lower revs, leading to crap lower speed performance. Have too skinny an exhaust and you get the exhaust velocity at low RPMs but the bike dies at high speed cos its strangled.
Baffles act to reduce the exit of the exhaust and increase flow speed.
What you want is no back pressure. You want the exhaust gasses out of the engine, through the pipework and out the back as fast as you can get it to go.
Speed is the important thing here. Have too big an exhaust and the flow speed drops. Think of a fat garden hose with a gentle stream of water. However, partially restrict the end of the hose and the water's velocity goes up a lot.
The challenge is to get the exit the right size. Put a fat exhaust on and the flow speed drops and lower-end rideability suffers. Put too narrow an exhaust on and you get the exhaust speed OK but its too restricted to allow much throughput.
Then there's all the stuff about reversion and pulses bouncing back from the exhaust end but that's getting complicated.
Bottom line: Have too fat an exhaust and the flow speed drops, especially at lower revs, leading to crap lower speed performance. Have too skinny an exhaust and you get the exhaust velocity at low RPMs but the bike dies at high speed cos its strangled.
Baffles act to reduce the exit of the exhaust and increase flow speed.
Last edited by Foxster; 09-01-2013 at 07:11 PM.
#7
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#8
Foxster, I definitely agree with you that anything in the pipe that causes restrictions such as a baffle or catalytic converter will decrease performance.
I really dont think backpressure would be an issue if you ran pipes without baffles unless the pipes were huge like you were saying.
I have a track ready camaro and this debate runs rampid in the car world also.
I have ran open headers before on the camaro and you definitely feel less back pressure in the low end because the exhaust is exiting right under your seat and not out the back, however with a bike this will not cause an issue unless maybe your ran the short shots or something.
However looking at the BTC baffles they seem to design them with as little restriction as possible, giving bike guys the option to use them if they dont want to **** off their neighbors or cops with no baffles.
I really dont think backpressure would be an issue if you ran pipes without baffles unless the pipes were huge like you were saying.
I have a track ready camaro and this debate runs rampid in the car world also.
I have ran open headers before on the camaro and you definitely feel less back pressure in the low end because the exhaust is exiting right under your seat and not out the back, however with a bike this will not cause an issue unless maybe your ran the short shots or something.
However looking at the BTC baffles they seem to design them with as little restriction as possible, giving bike guys the option to use them if they dont want to **** off their neighbors or cops with no baffles.
#9
Ok, I see we are going to have a discussion here.
I did some research and found this paper.. "Backpressure: Friend or Foe?"
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...Scavenging.pdf
What is interesting is the discussion of "over-scavenging" ... when the intake and exhaust valves are both open (cam overlap) and the high flow of the exhaust (previous cycle) pulls new air/fuel mixture (for the next power stroke) out the exhaust.
Take a read.
I did some research and found this paper.. "Backpressure: Friend or Foe?"
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...Scavenging.pdf
What is interesting is the discussion of "over-scavenging" ... when the intake and exhaust valves are both open (cam overlap) and the high flow of the exhaust (previous cycle) pulls new air/fuel mixture (for the next power stroke) out the exhaust.
Take a read.
Last edited by CoolWideGlideGuy; 09-01-2013 at 02:36 PM.
#10
Had a local shop make me two Baffles just like the BCT Monster baffles. Total cost $20 bucks . The guy that made them told me it took him 5 min per baffle .
When you install the baffles get them up the pipe 8 to 10 inches they will sound much better . As in don,t use the hole already in the pipe
When you install the baffles get them up the pipe 8 to 10 inches they will sound much better . As in don,t use the hole already in the pipe