XX-102": EVO 80” CV carb, FXR
#11
Low jet only controls up to about 1/4 throttle max. On the wide open dyno pull its using the main jet and the accelerator pump. It appears to have been running way lean when he started the run. On the dyno if you start the run at 2k RPM you hold a steady throttle at around 2k then record and hit the throttle. It looks like you were way lean coming into the run. That doesn't concern me as much because a typical carb tune you tune the main jet then go into the low speed and the needle.
I wish Fredericksburg was closer. Thats is the second time I've said that to myself...!
#12
unfortunately with the stock cv carb the aren't any easy accell pump adjustments, but there some things to do but nothing easy...i also think that the slow jet size you have shown is way to big. did they do any part throttle cruise area testing on this, or just 100% Roll ons? my thought would be a 48 also, but then if it was MY bike i would be running a Mikuni HSR 42 on it.
like everyone else said, it looks way rich at the beginning and could be a contributor, the exhaust also a contributor, it kinda gets back to finding the COMBO of parts that work well together theory (which is actually fact). you could probably get the Mikuni for less than the supertrap, it work make more power and have more adjustment, but there are always opinions, that is just mine. that is if you like the bassani pipe. if not. by all means, get the super trapp and the Mikuni and have lots of fun!!!
m
like everyone else said, it looks way rich at the beginning and could be a contributor, the exhaust also a contributor, it kinda gets back to finding the COMBO of parts that work well together theory (which is actually fact). you could probably get the Mikuni for less than the supertrap, it work make more power and have more adjustment, but there are always opinions, that is just mine. that is if you like the bassani pipe. if not. by all means, get the super trapp and the Mikuni and have lots of fun!!!
m
#13
#14
#15
#16
I am not even going to try to define right/wrong.
The concept of one HP per cubic inch is a basic baseline for mediocrity.
@ 102 inches you should have a 102 HP plain and simple.
Engines less then that are called derated.
I will let you sort it out as everyone has an opinion.
Personally, I would not be a happy camper
The concept of one HP per cubic inch is a basic baseline for mediocrity.
@ 102 inches you should have a 102 HP plain and simple.
Engines less then that are called derated.
I will let you sort it out as everyone has an opinion.
Personally, I would not be a happy camper
#17
I am not even going to try to define right/wrong.
The concept of one HP per cubic inch is a basic baseline for mediocrity.
@ 102 inches you should have a 102 HP plain and simple.
Engines less then that are called derated.
I will let you sort it out as everyone has an opinion.
Personally, I would not be a happy camper
The concept of one HP per cubic inch is a basic baseline for mediocrity.
@ 102 inches you should have a 102 HP plain and simple.
Engines less then that are called derated.
I will let you sort it out as everyone has an opinion.
Personally, I would not be a happy camper
#18
I am not dissing tyou.
You seemed to be asking what to look for
.I gave you a real quick synopsis.
There are engines NA that can do over two HP per cube! ( Not Harley)
Add artificial boost and the sky is the limit if the thing will hold together.
With a Plain Jane Harley, one to one is quite EZ.
It gives you a real goal to shoot for without question marks if this is good enough?
A truly tuned HD will get 1.25
There are a rare few that do better....BUT remember, if you ride on the street (street gas) you have to be realistic and keep those parameters in mind.
You seemed to be asking what to look for
.I gave you a real quick synopsis.
There are engines NA that can do over two HP per cube! ( Not Harley)
Add artificial boost and the sky is the limit if the thing will hold together.
With a Plain Jane Harley, one to one is quite EZ.
It gives you a real goal to shoot for without question marks if this is good enough?
A truly tuned HD will get 1.25
There are a rare few that do better....BUT remember, if you ride on the street (street gas) you have to be realistic and keep those parameters in mind.
#19
I am not dissing tyou.
You seemed to be asking what to look for
.I gave you a real quick synopsis.
There are engines NA that can do over two HP per cube! ( Not Harley)
Add artificial boost and the sky is the limit if the thing will hold together.
With a Plain Jane Harley, one to one is quite EZ.
It gives you a real goal to shoot for without question marks if this is good enough?
A truly tuned HD will get 1.25
There are a rare few that do better....BUT remember, if you ride on the street (street gas) you have to be realistic and keep those parameters in mind.
You seemed to be asking what to look for
.I gave you a real quick synopsis.
There are engines NA that can do over two HP per cube! ( Not Harley)
Add artificial boost and the sky is the limit if the thing will hold together.
With a Plain Jane Harley, one to one is quite EZ.
It gives you a real goal to shoot for without question marks if this is good enough?
A truly tuned HD will get 1.25
There are a rare few that do better....BUT remember, if you ride on the street (street gas) you have to be realistic and keep those parameters in mind.
Your response didn’t seem to have anything to do with that stated goal. Hence my response. But thanks again anyway. No offense intended.
#20
Sorry,
I get off track all the time....
Senile I guess,
Looking at the graph she starts out way too lean. Above 17 AFR?
That I think was already stated.
Keep in mind cams turn on above 300RPM, some feel like a rocket went off!
The dip into below 10 might make you load up a bit.
To me, it looks like two problems at once.
I sincerely recommend an AFR unit install on your bike.
That way you can address them in real-world conditions much cheaper than on a dyno.
They are simple to hook up and one bung required.
Cure that and perhaps the rest will cure itself.
I get off track all the time....
Senile I guess,
Looking at the graph she starts out way too lean. Above 17 AFR?
That I think was already stated.
Keep in mind cams turn on above 300RPM, some feel like a rocket went off!
The dip into below 10 might make you load up a bit.
To me, it looks like two problems at once.
I sincerely recommend an AFR unit install on your bike.
That way you can address them in real-world conditions much cheaper than on a dyno.
They are simple to hook up and one bung required.
Cure that and perhaps the rest will cure itself.