Dyno Charts This forum is for posting of your Dyno Charts. You will use a prefix to designate your Cubic Inches. When posting please include all model year, Cubic Inch and modifications in the thread title and in the body when posting your Dyno Charts.

XX-102": EVO 80” CV carb, FXR

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 05-16-2018, 04:14 PM
Mchad's Avatar
Mchad
Mchad is offline
Club Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SWFL
Posts: 10,507
Received 3,510 Likes on 2,133 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by harleytuner
Low jet only controls up to about 1/4 throttle max. On the wide open dyno pull its using the main jet and the accelerator pump. It appears to have been running way lean when he started the run. On the dyno if you start the run at 2k RPM you hold a steady throttle at around 2k then record and hit the throttle. It looks like you were way lean coming into the run. That doesn't concern me as much because a typical carb tune you tune the main jet then go into the low speed and the needle.
Oh crap. I thought I read that the pilot jet was up to 3/4 throttle. I gotta learn to read better apparently. Or at least comprehend.

I wish Fredericksburg was closer. Thats is the second time I've said that to myself...!
 
  #12  
Old 05-16-2018, 05:00 PM
marcodarq's Avatar
marcodarq
marcodarq is offline
Stellar HDF Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: florida
Posts: 3,129
Received 715 Likes on 565 Posts
Default

unfortunately with the stock cv carb the aren't any easy accell pump adjustments, but there some things to do but nothing easy...i also think that the slow jet size you have shown is way to big. did they do any part throttle cruise area testing on this, or just 100% Roll ons? my thought would be a 48 also, but then if it was MY bike i would be running a Mikuni HSR 42 on it.
like everyone else said, it looks way rich at the beginning and could be a contributor, the exhaust also a contributor, it kinda gets back to finding the COMBO of parts that work well together theory (which is actually fact). you could probably get the Mikuni for less than the supertrap, it work make more power and have more adjustment, but there are always opinions, that is just mine. that is if you like the bassani pipe. if not. by all means, get the super trapp and the Mikuni and have lots of fun!!!
m
 
  #13  
Old 05-16-2018, 07:53 PM
Mchad's Avatar
Mchad
Mchad is offline
Club Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SWFL
Posts: 10,507
Received 3,510 Likes on 2,133 Posts
Default

Thinking if the Bassani quiet baffle doesn’t do it I may try the DK Customs thunder Torque inserts. May help with the too free flow of the Road Rage?
 
  #14  
Old 05-16-2018, 09:01 PM
FLTRI17's Avatar
FLTRI17
FLTRI17 is offline
Stellar HDF Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,022
Received 599 Likes on 414 Posts
Default

I’ll bet you will find there is much better pull and happier down low (1000-3000) than with the baffle you are trying to use with that little motor
Let is know,
Bob
 
  #15  
Old 05-16-2018, 09:23 PM
Mchad's Avatar
Mchad
Mchad is offline
Club Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SWFL
Posts: 10,507
Received 3,510 Likes on 2,133 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by FLTRI17
I’ll bet you will find there is much better pull and happier down low (1000-3000) than with the baffle you are trying to use with that little motor
Let is know,
Bob
You mean with the TTI's, yes?
 
  #16  
Old 05-16-2018, 09:45 PM
Kingglide549's Avatar
Kingglide549
Kingglide549 is offline
Banned
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Viet Vet, crossroads
Posts: 4,576
Received 969 Likes on 694 Posts
Default

I am not even going to try to define right/wrong.
The concept of one HP per cubic inch is a basic baseline for mediocrity.
@ 102 inches you should have a 102 HP plain and simple.
Engines less then that are called derated.
I will let you sort it out as everyone has an opinion.
Personally, I would not be a happy camper
 
  #17  
Old 05-16-2018, 10:01 PM
Mchad's Avatar
Mchad
Mchad is offline
Club Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SWFL
Posts: 10,507
Received 3,510 Likes on 2,133 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Kingglide549
I am not even going to try to define right/wrong.
The concept of one HP per cubic inch is a basic baseline for mediocrity.
@ 102 inches you should have a 102 HP plain and simple.
Engines less then that are called derated.
I will let you sort it out as everyone has an opinion.
Personally, I would not be a happy camper
Thanks?
 
  #18  
Old 05-16-2018, 10:11 PM
Kingglide549's Avatar
Kingglide549
Kingglide549 is offline
Banned
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Viet Vet, crossroads
Posts: 4,576
Received 969 Likes on 694 Posts
Default

I am not dissing tyou.
You seemed to be asking what to look for
.I gave you a real quick synopsis.
There are engines NA that can do over two HP per cube! ( Not Harley)
Add artificial boost and the sky is the limit if the thing will hold together.
With a Plain Jane Harley, one to one is quite EZ.
It gives you a real goal to shoot for without question marks if this is good enough?
A truly tuned HD will get 1.25
There are a rare few that do better....BUT remember, if you ride on the street (street gas) you have to be realistic and keep those parameters in mind.
 
  #19  
Old 05-17-2018, 05:27 AM
Mchad's Avatar
Mchad
Mchad is offline
Club Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SWFL
Posts: 10,507
Received 3,510 Likes on 2,133 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Kingglide549
I am not dissing tyou.
You seemed to be asking what to look for
.I gave you a real quick synopsis.
There are engines NA that can do over two HP per cube! ( Not Harley)
Add artificial boost and the sky is the limit if the thing will hold together.
With a Plain Jane Harley, one to one is quite EZ.
It gives you a real goal to shoot for without question marks if this is good enough?
A truly tuned HD will get 1.25
There are a rare few that do better....BUT remember, if you ride on the street (street gas) you have to be realistic and keep those parameters in mind.
i wasn’t “dissing” you either. My thread was asking about the power dip and rich AFR in the low rpm area, not peak numbers. I’m perfectly happy with the 75hp, which according to you is a bit less then “mediocre” and my 89ftlbs of torque, which is more then my 103 made before I worked on it. I’m not trying to make a race bike, I’m just trying to smooth out the curve. The bike has all the power it needs, I’m just trying to fix that ugly curve w/o swapping cams again.

Your response didn’t seem to have anything to do with that stated goal. Hence my response. But thanks again anyway. No offense intended.
 
  #20  
Old 05-17-2018, 05:47 AM
Kingglide549's Avatar
Kingglide549
Kingglide549 is offline
Banned
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Viet Vet, crossroads
Posts: 4,576
Received 969 Likes on 694 Posts
Default

Sorry,
I get off track all the time....
Senile I guess,

Looking at the graph she starts out way too lean. Above 17 AFR?
That I think was already stated.
Keep in mind cams turn on above 300RPM, some feel like a rocket went off!
The dip into below 10 might make you load up a bit.
To me, it looks like two problems at once.
I sincerely recommend an AFR unit install on your bike.
That way you can address them in real-world conditions much cheaper than on a dyno.
They are simple to hook up and one bung required.
Cure that and perhaps the rest will cure itself.
 


Quick Reply: XX-102": EVO 80” CV carb, FXR



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:00 PM.