Batwing Fairing Removal with Speaker Upgrades & Installation
#1
01-10-2009, 11:54 PM
Batwing Fairing Removal with Speaker Upgrades Part I
For those who want to remove their batwing fairing cap for speakers and stereo upgrades, here's a step by step pictorial on the removal of the fairing cap along with installation of new speakers. Once the new speakers are installed simply reverse the process to reinstall the fairing cap.
There are a total of (7) Torx screws holding the outer fairing cap on the bike. Four along the inside of the fairing and the remaining three on the outer surface just below the windshield. Pay special attention to the outer screws as the last one to be removed is the center screw as this one is removed while holding the fairing from falling down. Failure to follow the proper sequence may result in damage to your fairing and or the front fender of your bike. Before starting, I would suggest you cover your front fender with a soft cloth or a towel to eliminate the possiblity of dropping a tool or part and damaging your paint.
First remove the screw from the right side of the fairing with a T-27 Torx driver. The screw is on the inside of the fairing and is located just below the mirror along the outer edge.
Next remove the screw ahead of the tank. It is located under the triple tree and the forks will need to be turned to the left in order for you to access this screw. If using a ratchet, be sure to protect the tank from being struck as you remove the screw as it is easy to strike the tank with the ratchet.
Now move over to the left side, turn the forks to the right and work your way up this side of the fairing starting with removal of the screw under the triple tree.
Next comes the upper inside screw located just below the mirror. That's it for the (4) inner screws and you're ready to move the the outer front side of the fairing.
The front surface has (3) screws just below the edge of the windshield. Start by removing the (2) the screws at the outer edges and leave the center screw for last. These are usually finger tight where use of a ratchet is seldom required.
When you're ready to remove the centre screw, place your other hand under the headlamp and prepare to hold the fairing up as it can/will drop when the last screw is removed. It's not very heavy so don't over prepare. It only weights a few pounds.
While gently lifting the outer cap away be sure the windshield stays in place (it can be removed prior if you feel it's an annoyance).
When you pull the cap away you'll notice the headlamp has a connector plugged into the harness.
Gently squeeze the sides of this connector at the back of the headlamp in the 3 & 9 o'clock position.
This will allow you to gently uncouple the harness from the lamp and pull it clear from the bike.
Now take the cap and place it somewhere out of the way so you don't trip over it or damage it.
Here's what the POS Harley speakers look like from the back side, and yes these should be replaced with something of better quality. Before moving on, let me say this. Almost any decent car audio speaker will be a great upgrade over the stock speaker. Don't worry about things like it not being marine grade, as you do not need marine grade unless you like throwing money away. Almost all newer speakers will have a protective coating on the speaker with a butyl rubber seal and they will hold up just fine to the elements. Trust me here....I know a thing or two about this stuff!
With a T-25 Torx driver, back out the (3) screws that secure the speaker and mounting plate. Note that the top (2) screws are much longer than the lower screw and they must go back in the same spots when reassembling. If you mix up the screws you could suffer damage to the fairing when reinstalling.
With the screws removed, unclip the positive / negative speaker wires from the basket and place the speaker on the bench.
Now you can switch out the speakers from the plastic basket and they are ready to reinstall. I used HogTunes in this upgrade as they are a much better speaker than the stock units and deliver better overall sound. It should be said that any 5.25" speaker should fit and many have used the HogTunes, JBL GTO's, Infinity Kapa's and others with good success. I like the HogTunes myself because Pez is a Harley guy himself, and he stands behind his products from sale to any technical support.
Now you're ready to reinstall the speakers, but before doing so, lube the tips of the screws with liquid soap or a drop or two of oil. This will help the threads to self lube as they thread back into the ABS plastic and keeps them from damaging the plastic.
With the (2) longer screws in the top holes and the short one through the support bracket below, snug them up and do not over tighten the screws or damage can occur.
Reconnect the speaker wires with both the positive and negative posts. HogTune speakers have the same posts as the factory speakers so they are quite easy to connect. Place your finger behind the bridge for added support while gently working the connectors onto the lead pins as you don't want to snap the bridge that holds the soldered pins in place.
With the new speakers in place and the wires connected, you are ready to reconnect the headlamp harness and reinstall the fairing cap. Start with the center screw and snug them up in the reverse order of when you took them out. Avoid locktite on these screws and be sure the outer screws are snugged up by hand only. The (2) under the triple three's are normally a little tighter but do not crank on them, just a few inch pounds or so is all they need. Consult an service manual if you want the specific torque settings for these screws. They dont need very much and they don't often come loose.
In a future post, I will deal with upgrades of the head units, USB iPod connections, and the Biketronics retro radio connections which provide full handlebar control to aftermarket and high end head units from Sony, Pioneer and others.
There are a total of (7) Torx screws holding the outer fairing cap on the bike. Four along the inside of the fairing and the remaining three on the outer surface just below the windshield. Pay special attention to the outer screws as the last one to be removed is the center screw as this one is removed while holding the fairing from falling down. Failure to follow the proper sequence may result in damage to your fairing and or the front fender of your bike. Before starting, I would suggest you cover your front fender with a soft cloth or a towel to eliminate the possiblity of dropping a tool or part and damaging your paint.
First remove the screw from the right side of the fairing with a T-27 Torx driver. The screw is on the inside of the fairing and is located just below the mirror along the outer edge.
Next remove the screw ahead of the tank. It is located under the triple tree and the forks will need to be turned to the left in order for you to access this screw. If using a ratchet, be sure to protect the tank from being struck as you remove the screw as it is easy to strike the tank with the ratchet.
Now move over to the left side, turn the forks to the right and work your way up this side of the fairing starting with removal of the screw under the triple tree.
Next comes the upper inside screw located just below the mirror. That's it for the (4) inner screws and you're ready to move the the outer front side of the fairing.
The front surface has (3) screws just below the edge of the windshield. Start by removing the (2) the screws at the outer edges and leave the center screw for last. These are usually finger tight where use of a ratchet is seldom required.
When you're ready to remove the centre screw, place your other hand under the headlamp and prepare to hold the fairing up as it can/will drop when the last screw is removed. It's not very heavy so don't over prepare. It only weights a few pounds.
While gently lifting the outer cap away be sure the windshield stays in place (it can be removed prior if you feel it's an annoyance).
When you pull the cap away you'll notice the headlamp has a connector plugged into the harness.
Gently squeeze the sides of this connector at the back of the headlamp in the 3 & 9 o'clock position.
This will allow you to gently uncouple the harness from the lamp and pull it clear from the bike.
Now take the cap and place it somewhere out of the way so you don't trip over it or damage it.
Here's what the POS Harley speakers look like from the back side, and yes these should be replaced with something of better quality. Before moving on, let me say this. Almost any decent car audio speaker will be a great upgrade over the stock speaker. Don't worry about things like it not being marine grade, as you do not need marine grade unless you like throwing money away. Almost all newer speakers will have a protective coating on the speaker with a butyl rubber seal and they will hold up just fine to the elements. Trust me here....I know a thing or two about this stuff!
With a T-25 Torx driver, back out the (3) screws that secure the speaker and mounting plate. Note that the top (2) screws are much longer than the lower screw and they must go back in the same spots when reassembling. If you mix up the screws you could suffer damage to the fairing when reinstalling.
With the screws removed, unclip the positive / negative speaker wires from the basket and place the speaker on the bench.
Now you can switch out the speakers from the plastic basket and they are ready to reinstall. I used HogTunes in this upgrade as they are a much better speaker than the stock units and deliver better overall sound. It should be said that any 5.25" speaker should fit and many have used the HogTunes, JBL GTO's, Infinity Kapa's and others with good success. I like the HogTunes myself because Pez is a Harley guy himself, and he stands behind his products from sale to any technical support.
Now you're ready to reinstall the speakers, but before doing so, lube the tips of the screws with liquid soap or a drop or two of oil. This will help the threads to self lube as they thread back into the ABS plastic and keeps them from damaging the plastic.
With the (2) longer screws in the top holes and the short one through the support bracket below, snug them up and do not over tighten the screws or damage can occur.
Reconnect the speaker wires with both the positive and negative posts. HogTune speakers have the same posts as the factory speakers so they are quite easy to connect. Place your finger behind the bridge for added support while gently working the connectors onto the lead pins as you don't want to snap the bridge that holds the soldered pins in place.
With the new speakers in place and the wires connected, you are ready to reconnect the headlamp harness and reinstall the fairing cap. Start with the center screw and snug them up in the reverse order of when you took them out. Avoid locktite on these screws and be sure the outer screws are snugged up by hand only. The (2) under the triple three's are normally a little tighter but do not crank on them, just a few inch pounds or so is all they need. Consult an service manual if you want the specific torque settings for these screws. They dont need very much and they don't often come loose.
In a future post, I will deal with upgrades of the head units, USB iPod connections, and the Biketronics retro radio connections which provide full handlebar control to aftermarket and high end head units from Sony, Pioneer and others.
Last edited by GasCan; 01-17-2009 at 07:15 PM. Reason: Title Change
#7
01-11-2009, 11:24 AM
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#10
01-11-2009, 12:09 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Good point. I still have the stock speakers in my 2005 Ultra. I've heard Hog Tunes and J&M's, but couldn't tell if they're any better. That's why I invested in a good pair of helmet speakers. Loud rock from my youth and wind noise has ruined my hearing. LOL! I think I'm tone deaf. Say what??
