I don't think it's a short cuz I have a good battery reading I think it's the solenoid as I was told by a couple of mechanic to clean it out or change it and I've changed them a couple of times in the last couple years and taking the solenoid off the bike is a pain in the *** but I think I have to keep doing that and keeping it checked or disconnect the starter motor and see if the starter solenoid is clicking?

 

If the solenoids are actually failing, that suggests there is another underlying problem. I've owned my 1990 Glide from new and haven't replaced that solenoid. It shouldn't be necesary to replace it regularly IMHO.

 

thanx Jr
sounds like the solenoids are failing so I'm not sure what to do

 

thanx Jr
sounds like the solenoids are failing so I'm not sure what to do

 

Remove the solenoid and clean all the contacts. If in doubt replace it.

 

If you're stuck with what to do next, follow the advice above and get someone to put his hands on your bike. If solenoids keep failing there is an underlying problem, as already mentioned. There is a limit to how much help we can provide, unless someone comes up with an inspired idea.

 

right on thanx I got three old ones the big copper screws are somewhat worn on inside where the disc spins mabey turn them around.?
the disc is worn thru the copper
these solenoids seem like they have to be changed once a year??

 

No they don't need frequent replacement, see post #12 above!

 

Have you removed the primary cover and inspected the mechanical components?

Remember, you must disconnect the battery before removing the cover.

Note: it is not a short..

Here is my personal theory on starter run on:

Starter Run On

When you push the starter button, the coil around the starter solenoid plunger is energized, which causes the plunger to extend, engaging the pinion gear with the ring gear on the clutch, and at the same time making electrical contact to energize the starter motor.

When you release the button, it cuts the power to the solenoid coil, and the plunger retracts, which disengages the gears and also opens the circuit between the starter and the battery.

When you have nice clean connections, mechanical components in good working order and a good strong battery this works as designed, the engine spins over at a good speed, and each time the pistons go past the compression stroke the friction between the pinion gear and the starter ring gear decreases, so that the pinion gear can retract.

Now throw poor electrical connections, weak battery, misaligned or worn mechanical parts into the mix, and what happens is the starter spins the engine slow, and the friction between the two gears stays constant, so the pinion gear cannot retract. This keeps the starter engaged, because the pinion gear and the electrical contacts to the starter are on the same shaft.

This does not happen on a modern starter configuration, because the plunger shaft and the pinion gear are not locked together, so when the power to the starter solenoid plunger is interrupted, the shaft that has the electrical contacts can retract, even if the gears are stuck together. Once this electrical connection is interrupted, the starter motor is de-energized, and the starter stops, and once that happens, the friction holding the gears together decreases, and the pinion gear will retract away from the ring gear.

 

Typical issues with the old starter systems, your battery cables are weak, the contacts in solenoid are burnt and pitted and the grounding points on the whole rubber mount system need to be cleaned and you'll probably find one loose. Oh and the starter's old enough the brushes and armature are probably on their last legs too. Combine these issues and the starter will draw huge amps causing overheating and arcing as you've found.

The burnt terminal on the battery is the weakest point , why it keeps melting.

The starter keeps running because the contact points in the solenoid basically arc weld themselves together from the amp overdraw.