Hello there,
I thought it would be a good start to say that it's good to meet you all on here. I hope somebody can help me out. Anybody who can give advice or share experience. It would be greatly appreciated right now.

I bought a 2015 XL1200X "48" from new at Southampton Harley Davidson in the UK. I have loved and cared for the bike as much as possible every day since I purchased it. But I haven't ridden it in the last 6 months as it is standstill already. Feeling very disappointed considering it feels like it's had it after 3 years already! I've travelled roughly 6000 miles on it. So it is very, very unacceptable really. Anyway down to the issue...

About 6 months ago I went to ride the bike and realised quickly that I had no power at all. I changed the battery for a brand new one. Still no power...
so after investigation of the 3 main fuses, I noticed the red (20 amp) parts and accessories fuse had blown. So I replaced it and it immediately blew again upon doing so. I then managed to find that it was smoking from the right hand handlebar controls (Run switch, right indicator assembly). After stripping down the throttle grip and switch module assembly. I found that the PCB from the switch had melted at the bottom near the plug.
After stripping it down. I found that it had completely burnt out one of the pins from the plug. Me and my father are Aircraft Fitters so luckily we had the support to fix the PCB connector. The pin was bridged with bridging wire. Thinking it was moisture which had ingressed into the unit and shorted. Yesterday we assembled it back together and then got the same thing immediately. My dilemma is that I don't really want to fork out £365 for a new PCB for it to short again. But also, don't really want to have to take it back to mainland to the poorly staffed and skilled Southampton branch to possibly spend thousands trying to sort it out. I am an extremely competent mechanic, just not so clued up with electronics.

I was wondering if there is anybody out there who has had this same issue with their bike? And what had they done to fix it? Also anybody who could point me in the right direction?

It's really getting me down as I do love the bike but this has put me right off it. Such an expense for such little use and age already.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Much Obliged.
Aidan Baldry

 

Aiden, problems like this usually have innocent causes! Have you made any mods to your bike at any time, such as changing handlebars, removed the handlebar switches for any reason, made other electrical mods such as adding/changing lights, etc?

Electrical problems are often actually mechanical, that is to say they arise from something like a damaged wire, loose/dirty wiring connector, bad earth/ground, etc. You know which circuit fuse blew, which isolates which part of the bike's electrical system you need to rigorously inspect and check. You must also have a pal who knows which end of a multimeter to use?! Diagnose and identify the culprit, then you can effect repairs.

 

mr. brown makes an excellent observation!
i will only add that a clue was sat up 6 months, so maybe look damage caused by critters, seen it before.
do you have the FSM electrical? will see if i have that info as well in my library. as brought out, a multi-meter, test light or circuit trace will be of great help.

 

i have up to 2013 so if you need info, send me a pm

 

Hey Mr Brown. Really appreciate your input dude. Just to let you know. The bike is completely standard. Nothing at all has been touched on it since I bought it new. The only thing non standard is the Vance and hines slash cut muffler's which were fitted by Harley Davidson Southampton when I first bought it. Nothing electrical has been added. Will follow your input and advice and make further investigation. I have a few friends who are good with a multimeter. Will keep you posted. Once again thanks.
✌️

 

Hey bustert
Thanks for the input. But the bike wasn't actually sat 6 months prior to this issue. It was sat about 2 weeks since the last time I used the bike. It's been sat 6 months since the issue arose is what I meant. No risk of critters here in England. Especially where I live. The only critters are woodlice and Ant's. Nothing to eat through the wiring. What's the fsm electrical dude?
thanks
Aidan

 

Hello Aidan,
I believe Mr. Busturt is referring to the HD electrical diagnostic factory service manual.
Although not a common failure, it is not unheard of for switch gear modules to fail. In saying that, I've not heard of one blowing the P&A fuse, but more that one or other buttons are non responsive when pressed. Can you recall the wire colour for the pin that was damaged? The burning of the pcb does suggest that this is the actual item that is at fault.

You may well know a proportion of what I'm about to write but just in case.
You will have five wires leading to your right hand switch gear.
White/grey. This is a wire to prevent your bike shutting down if it is being ridden and you have a Canbus failure.
Red/orange. This is a 12volts battery power wire that provides power to the switch gear module/ pcb.
Black. This is the earth wire for the switch gear module.
White/red & White/black. These are the two Canbus twisted wires that provide communication to the other modules on the bike to indicate which button has been pressed on your switch gear.
The pcb turns your physical pressing of a button into a computer binary message which those twisted Canbus wires then pass onto the other modules.

The connectors for your switch gear modules, both left and right are under the plastic caddy below and towards the front of the fuel tank.

Can you confirm something for me?
Was it the P&A fuse that blew or was it the battery fuse? I only ask because the battery fuse is the circuit that should provide power to the switch gear, not the P&A fuse. This is the Red/orange wire. This wire provides power to both switch gear modules, the ECM, the speedo, the idiot light display and the security siren. Any of these items should be checked to confirm they are good in terms of obvious signs of corrosion or damage at relevant connectors. The idiot light display unit is a relatively common area for corrosion and failure, but unlikely to cause your current issue.
If it seems that presently no further damage is being done other than the fuse blowing when you attempt to turn the ignition on, try disconnecting the above one at a time and see if it changes anything. Disconnect with the ignition off. I know the fuse is blown but can't help following good procedure. Bear in mind that disconnecting the siren will likely cause it to go off and as you can't turn the ignition on with out it blowing the fuse, it will continue to go off unless you remove the battery from the siren. In all honesty I would leave it as it's again unlikely to be the issue.

Does the fuse blow before you pushed the Run switch to the On position?

Where the right hand switch gear wiring runs along the handlebar under the clamp for the front brake m/c ensure that it hasn't been crushed and caused damage that might cause a short.
Although unlikely to cause your issue, check that the earthing point located on the stud protruding from the back of the primary, beside the starter motor is secure. This is the earthing point for the ground from your switch gear and sensors on your bike. It should be a black/ green wire.
With the ignition off and the battery fuse in good condition, does the speedo indicate the mileage if you press the trip button on the left hand switch gear?
With the ignition off. If you disconnect the right hand switch gear module at the small connector under the tank, are you getting battery voltage on the Red/orange wire? If you are then this suggests the short is either in the harness for the right switch gear or in the switch gear pcb.

Although it's not going to alleviate your concern about replacing the switch gear, I've never seen a new switch gear short out if the rest of the circuit was good.

good luck.