Cranks, won't start drains battery
 

2012 Dyna FLD 103. SE air cleaner. V&H slip on.

The starter will crank for a max of three attempts but not turn over, after that just get the click.

This problem started a few weeks ago, when the weather started getting cold (?).

It is always on a tender and that didn't show any problems.
Thinking it was the battery I replaced that with a standard battery from the local AutoZone. It did turn over one time but then would not.

I had FL-XiED-10 installed and thought it might be a fault with that so I removed it. No improvement.

Before I have the local independant shop pick it up, is there anything else that I should try?

I've bought a FuelMoto Micro EFI and it is programmed for the bike and ready to install, will that help?

Doesn't matter how new the battery is - have it load tested

Back to Auto Zone you go to do :icon_that:. What is the power looking like at the batt during and after cranking? If batt is fine then I would go Start Relay then Solenoid, maybe either is overheating.

I tell ya, load testing wont tell the whole story either. I have had 2 batteries that load tested fine but wouldnt crank my bike on cold days.
This has been the best battery that I have had so far.
https://bigboarproducts.com/collections/batteries

I have seen the same thing. These small amperage batteries are hard to check (most checkers are junk from adbuse) and also need when brand new , need a good 24 hours charge with a maintenance low amperage (below 1 amp) charge. Don't give a rats ass what they say.. Also, check the connection.

You really need a AC, ohm , DC voltmeter. Put it on the charger line when you hit the starter. Should not drop below 9.6 volts.

Also, if it does not turn over (crank to me) it's battery or connection. If it does not start, then that is another story. I am going to asume AutoZone had a AGM gell matt battery for your bike)

Yep, great advise ...Every time I have had issues, the battery voltage would drop below 10v while cranking.
Thats what I use as a measure for when to replace the battery.

Not a bad idea. People who usually keep a maintenance charger on all the time usually get their last start at home. Then, 20 miles from home, after sitting, all they get is a grunt..clic..clic. These bikes are a bitch to push. And should never be jumped started except in an extream emergency. Running and charging a dead shorted battery can destroy the stator or regulator.

Also, a weak battery causes that starter bang and then someone sells them a starter and or sprag clutch gear (Bendix)

Bump for some more advice
 

Thanks to all who responded. I am no wrench but I can follow directions well. After letting the bike sit on the Tender for three months I tested it. With the cheapo battery from the local car parts store installed and a good digital VOM I found that the 12.5v resting voltage dropped to 5.5v upon cranking. As soon as I stop cranking, the voltage jumps back up to 11.9 or so. I will take that as a positive indicator of a bad battery (dammit). What else could cause that battery voltage to drop? My knowledge is limited as far as starters and stators and such.

Recommended for me from my friends was an Interstate AGM battery. Of course the first run of the year is tomorrow and the Interstate dealer is closed until Monday.

I welcome any and all suggestions.

A fresh charged 12 Volt Battery should be 13+ Volts. Heres a Good Battery, less expensive than the Dealer.

https://www.renegadebattery.com/Powe...Battery_2.html

It's 600+ CCA!

Ripsaw, I agree with your statement that when using a battery tender all the time, if your battery or charging system goes bad, you get a good start at home, then once on the road your next start is a no go...

I think people have become obsessive about the battery tender. No need to use a tender if the bike is regularly ridden.

My 2016 Road King recently sat in storage during a move, for about 10 weeks (security system was on, no battery tender), when I finally got to move it, it fired right up.