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Stalling, surging and blowing out lights

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  #11  
Old 11-26-2018, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TriGeezer
Sometimes, particularly for intermittent issues, is most effective to replace the highest probability failure item and cross your fingers.
Tempted to do exactly that, but I might as well at least test the battery first and go from there.
 
  #12  
Old 11-26-2018, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rainsong
Replaced the stator at 37,000 miles due to a broken wire. Bike is at 52,000 now. Only reason I replaced the regulator was because I first thought that was the issue before I discovered the busted stator. Also, Cycle Electric only warranties their product when you use their brand for both the stator and VR.

Haven't really used my heated gear a ton since then, but who knows.
Something is different now:
You stated "The original stator went bad about 2 years ago, and I replaced both it and the voltage regulator back then with Cycle Electric parts. And of course, they’re both 6 months out of warranty now."
If the regulator was not replaced with cycle electric then it is highly possible the replacement regulator was not the best...what brand was it?
 
  #13  
Old 11-26-2018, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by im
Something is different now:
You stated "The original stator went bad about 2 years ago, and I replaced both it and the voltage regulator back then with Cycle Electric parts. And of course, they’re both 6 months out of warranty now."
If the regulator was not replaced with cycle electric then it is highly possible the replacement regulator was not the best...what brand was it?
The stator and VR are both Cycle Electric.
 
  #14  
Old 11-26-2018, 02:18 PM
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OP stated as you quoted that they replaced both parts with Cycle Electric parts.
 
  #15  
Old 11-26-2018, 02:23 PM
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OP, I would go with the thermal test using a hair dryer to warm the part and see if it starts to fail. If it does you know where the issue really is rather than a part swap and pray.
 
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  #16  
Old 11-26-2018, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
OP stated as you quoted that they replaced both parts with Cycle Electric parts.
Now it makes sense...stator wire was broken so stator and regulator were changed to cycle electric in order to maintain a warranty..
Rather low miles (about 15,000) on a Cycle Electric part for there to be a problem with actual parts.
Makes you wonder if some hard short circuit fried the regulator.
 
  #17  
Old 11-26-2018, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
OP, I would go with the thermal test using a hair dryer to warm the part and see if it starts to fail. If it does you know where the issue really is rather than a part swap and pray.
This got me thinking...two out of the three times it happened, I was only a few minutes into my ride and it was cold weather. The other time I’d been riding for probably 20 minutes or so and it was also cold temperatures outside. Not sure how quickly a VR gets hot, but I rode it for a good couple hours immediately after the first two incidents with no further trouble either time.

Regardless, I’ll start by load testing the battery and working my way to the VR after that.
 
  #18  
Old 11-26-2018, 10:23 PM
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Two older bikes I had the same issues with both turned out to be the battery. Back in the wet battery days popping a headlight is how I knew the battery needed water.
 
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2018, 06:00 PM
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Here’s an update:

1. Unhooked all my extra wiring (heated gear, phone charger, etc.)

2. Charged battery overnight and had it tested at auto parts store. Checked out fine.

3. Tested voltage regulator. Voltage regulator is showing about 0.17 volts when I connect my multimeter to either pin of the VR and negative post of the battery when the bike is not running.

4. Tested stator. Seems to check out fine.

So...my understanding is that this means my voltage regulator is bad. Am I right about that, even though it’s showing such a small amount of voltage?
 
  #20  
Old 11-29-2018, 08:46 AM
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#3 should be an Ohms check to ground on the DC side of the VR to see if the diodes are failed in the VR. This should show OL on your meter. If it is not showing this then you have a bad VR.
#4 Stator test should be between terminals and also each terminal to ground to see if there is a short to ground and continuity between each of the phases contacts. If you are showing continuity to ground even a high resistance then you have a short to ground on your stator. No continuity between contacts then you have a broken wire in the stator.
 
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