Custom Auxiliary Lighting Bracket Kit
69818-06
Anyone have experience installing this kit? I will soon install this on my 2011 Street Glide. Any tips, suggestions, install hints, etc. would be appreciated. Some of the things I've noted so far (please let me know if any of this is in error):

1. The stock turn signals attach to this kit, so no need to buy turn signal bullets.

2. One article I read mentioned a water leakage issue with the upsidedown turn signal bullet mount. Anyone have tips/suggestions or maybe pics of waterproofing/sealing the unit?

3. I did have to purchase bulb kit for upper portion. I saw somewhere that there are 3 types of bulbs, 2 are sealed units and 1 has replaceable internal bulb (I got 68348-05, MoCo said it would match my headlamp, not sure if it is sealed unit or replaceable as I haven't opened the box yet).

4. Multiple articles mentioned needing a special crimping tool (deutsch crimping tool) but one entry said it looked like the connectors were already installed. Anyone have any first hand experience on which is the case with this kit?

 

I think it's the same kit that I installed on my 08 Street Glide. If it is, it's a little time consuming but not that bad. Getting the pins out of the connectors and threading the wire through the mount is the biggest PIA. Took me about 3-4 hours but that was really being careful. Have fun. I didn't have to buy a special crimping tool, just a regular pair of needle nose will do the job (a little soldering could help if you know how).

You will love the look as well as the light it puts out on the road when you are done.

 

Success! I installed this kit and I have lights! Thanks Puggy for the info on the connectors, I ended up just using needle nose also. I think I ended up taking 3-4 hours myself. I did notice a few things and I'll share them here:

1. You have to cut the plug off the end of the existing turn signal lights to get the wires out of the stock bracket. The kit provides new plugs.

2. I had quite a time after removing the ignition switch. I followed the instructions on removing it (as shown on this YouTube video -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-QBH1SFyzo) and it was in the fork-lock position (as the beginning of this video shows). Well this position wasn't conducive to getting that switch panel back on easily. So I decided to take a screwdriver and poke it down the hole to unlock it. Dumb move on my part ... if I would have watched the entire video I would have seen his ingenious tool. I ended up looking down the hole I had removed the ignition switch from and figured out that there were two places that actually moved in there ... one to lock forks and the other to switch electrical options (you can see two sets of paddles on the ignition shaft if you bother to look at it, like I didn't initially do). I can only figure that I had moved one place (the locking mechanism) and not the other (the electrical position). The video's tool would have saved me 30-45 minutes of anguish!

3. To thread the turn signal wires through the new bracket I had to cut off the heat wrap from the stock wires. To do this I took a box cutter and lightly cut the heat wrap, not enough to go through, just enough to score it like you would Plexiglas before breaking it. Once scored I just grabbed a wire end and pulled it out of the wrap. The kit provides new heat wrap (of course I found that after electrical taping my wires).

4. A long time ago I purchased a socket set that the ratchet has a hole in it for tightening nuts on long bolts where the end of the bolt goes way past the nut. I can't even remember what the kit was called or why I even bothered purchasing it. But today I used it ... it made tightening the nut that secures the bottom of the auxiliary light housing super easy. With that ratchet I was able to thread the wire through the lock washer, the nut and the hole in the ratchet and tighten the whole deal up easily.

5. I went and purchased some clear sealant for the turn signal bullet mount because I read somewhere else that a guy had maximal water leakage problems. Not sure if I sealed correctly, I'll update this thread later.

6. I couldn't find in the instructions where all four wires went on the new plug provided. I looked at the old plug prior to cutting it off and noted the 3 wire positions 1) Blue 2) Purple 3) Black. Of course once you run all the wires through there are four wires, the additional one is gray. I found in another forum that this gray wire indeed goes into the 4) position on the new plug.

7. Please note: The wiring in 6. above will cause the auxiliary lights to turn off when you go to hi-beams. I initially thought my wiring had gone awry but I went online and in another forum saw someone had done the same thing ... even if you have the aux light switch on, if you have the hi-beam switch on the aux lights turn off and their switch is no longer illuminated. I saw someone had mentioned another wiring option to have them on continually, I may look into that later. I'm just glad they are fully operational!

 

+1 on the soldering. If there's even a remote possibility of moisture the contact might fail and when it does the wires can become very hot as the juice will have to go through less of the copper. This will cause the plug to become hot and melt.
I might even make you say words you normally don't use. The neigbours will become upset and call the police. They will arrest you on public offences charges and haul your *** to jail. This will be the time your wife might get lonely and that leads to all-sorts. You willl become frustrated and might even assult one of your cell-mates. He will then sue you for all you have. You will have to sell your beloved bike to pay him off.

So you see..........not having a proper connection on your lights might lead to you having to sell your bike. Now you wouldn't want that to happen now, do you?