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Crankpin Nut Loctite?

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Old 09-23-2014, 02:24 PM
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Default Crankpin Nut Loctite?

Crank / Flywheels in question are out of a 97 Evo.

It came out of a bike with roughly .0035" runout (just outside the inner tapered bearing on the output shaft side - so probably slightly more closer to flywheel where the bearing rides).

Long story short I took it to a local shop and got it back with .006"+ runout on the pinion shaft after they "trued it" and reassembled the lower end with new bearings.

I am going to do this myself, because apparently you cannot trust some people and I am low on funds as a result of it. I have the equipment required to measure it. But only a lead hammer, clamp and wedge to adjust it. I know the general procedure, with a lead hammer and a wedge and clamp.

What formula and how are people applying loctite to the Crankpin nuts?

I don't think I can true it in under 20 minutes before the red loctite sets up.

Would the nuts need to come off to true it and would you trust it as assembled, just moving it to true?

Seems like since I will have it out again, that it might be worth seperating and checking the pin and rod bearings even though they feel good.

Let me know what you think.

I am almost beginning to think this bike is cursed......
 
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Old 09-23-2014, 03:10 PM
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We use the what Loctite used to refer to as RC-680, on the nuts, light film on the tapers, and lock screws if so equipped.
You are going to need a torque multiplier(and torque wrench) to draw those nuts down, and a way to hold the wheels once doing so.
Our Proto mulitipler was about $500.00 or so, back when we bought it.
FWIW, we have about $7500.00-$8000.00 tied up in equipment to balance, assemble, re-build, and true flywheels here, not even counting the several custom arbors, and bob-weight adapters for odd-ball stuff.
Scott
 
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:06 PM
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Scott,

I can appreciate your equipment costs, as I am in the manufacturing field.

My understanding has always been that tapers should be white room clean and dry.

Do you use the large angle plate as a clamp and bar setup for adjusting any scissor?

Also, what is the benefit of the torque multiplier if your torque wrench is suitable for 200-220 ft-lbs usage?

You clearly have more experience than I, so I am all ears.
 
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