leaking Pushrod Tube
#11
Stopped in my local dealership to purchase a new set of O-Rings. We discussed and 1 of the old guys behind the counter suggested adding a spacer between the spring and the metal washer under the collar. He suggested taking the teflon alternatives for cork on shovels, cut it with a razor blade and use it to apply additiona pressure to that mddle o-ring. Said it was an old ironhead fix. I purchased the new o-rings but havent installed them since the teflon spacer trick applied enough force on the o-ring to stop the dribble.
#12
I have this same issue with my S&S Push Rod tubes Started leaking a few months after install. Took it apart to find the middle o-ring had taken a set thus leaking. I thought OK easy fix just change the O-ring. Changed it out, and once again a few months later it is now leaking again. Seems to be worse at speed, but I am always at speed. Seems like the slipstream air is sucking the oil out past the o-ring? Just a guess. There must be a fix for this other than changing out the O-ring every 6 month. I have 2013 Road glide with a pumped up 103 if that matters at all.
#13
#14
I called S&S about this hoping there was a mod or parts change to fix this.They claimed they have never heard of this before. Cough Cough, yea right. I told them all they need to do is look online to find many cases of leaking tubes. End result, they were no help. Guess I'll simply have to change the o-rings out again. Going to try and think of a better way to do this.
#15
However, if it is in fact the middle o-ring, check to make sure that you didn't lose the flat washer that slides on between the spring and the o-ring.
This,After going from 96 to 103 this winter.only leaked when i got on it.Drive around nice and easy no leak,twist the throttle a little and it leaked.Drove me nuts.Finally popped pushrod cover off and looked I was missing the little washer between the spring and the middle o ring.Replaced it no leak!Was very hard to tell were oil was coming wind would blow oil around motor.without that washer though you could replace o-rings and the spring would cut the new one and you'd still have a leak
This,After going from 96 to 103 this winter.only leaked when i got on it.Drive around nice and easy no leak,twist the throttle a little and it leaked.Drove me nuts.Finally popped pushrod cover off and looked I was missing the little washer between the spring and the middle o ring.Replaced it no leak!Was very hard to tell were oil was coming wind would blow oil around motor.without that washer though you could replace o-rings and the spring would cut the new one and you'd still have a leak
Last edited by tlfreak; 06-17-2017 at 10:12 AM.
#16
I've has issues with pushrod tubes, some were self induced some were just crappy parts.
1. If you have scratches in the inner upper tubes, replace them.. Use Evo versions if you are using SE lower tubes (which are really EVO lowers) The evo uppers are longer and will hold the pushrod tube straighter. Scratches will cause leaks.
2. Make sure the lowers don't have any dings where the O rings go. Both top ( the V) and bottom
3. Make sure the clips are square at the ends. Sometimes they are cut due to fit being tight. The is sometimes required when the heads are milled.. I would also make sure that the preload is about 3/8 inch when everything is in place. Too much and you can damage the spring and / or gouge the upper tube. I use a worn out screw driver to install the clips but should really break down and buy the tool..
4. Check the ID of the spring cover as it digs into then soft inner upper. I found the inner lip to be sharp on some covers. A tootsie roll on the grinder can smooth the lip and take an sharp edges off.
5. Use good O rings.. Stock HD are OK The HD and Cometics top o rings are Viton but I've started using Viton on the mids and lowers as the motors do get hot enough for the O ring to take a set. The new M8s use all Viton.
6. Make sure that the springs are square, If they tilt to one side or the other, they won't load the middle O ring correctly..
7. Make sure the washers are flat.
8. Make sure the hole in the head where the O ring sits is clean. While Vitons O rings stay soft they tend to stick themselves to the grove a leave a little crap. Brake clean on a rag will take it out..
9. Use a slight amount of oil on the O rings to help them seat. The middle one can roll if you don't.
1. If you have scratches in the inner upper tubes, replace them.. Use Evo versions if you are using SE lower tubes (which are really EVO lowers) The evo uppers are longer and will hold the pushrod tube straighter. Scratches will cause leaks.
2. Make sure the lowers don't have any dings where the O rings go. Both top ( the V) and bottom
3. Make sure the clips are square at the ends. Sometimes they are cut due to fit being tight. The is sometimes required when the heads are milled.. I would also make sure that the preload is about 3/8 inch when everything is in place. Too much and you can damage the spring and / or gouge the upper tube. I use a worn out screw driver to install the clips but should really break down and buy the tool..
4. Check the ID of the spring cover as it digs into then soft inner upper. I found the inner lip to be sharp on some covers. A tootsie roll on the grinder can smooth the lip and take an sharp edges off.
5. Use good O rings.. Stock HD are OK The HD and Cometics top o rings are Viton but I've started using Viton on the mids and lowers as the motors do get hot enough for the O ring to take a set. The new M8s use all Viton.
6. Make sure that the springs are square, If they tilt to one side or the other, they won't load the middle O ring correctly..
7. Make sure the washers are flat.
8. Make sure the hole in the head where the O ring sits is clean. While Vitons O rings stay soft they tend to stick themselves to the grove a leave a little crap. Brake clean on a rag will take it out..
9. Use a slight amount of oil on the O rings to help them seat. The middle one can roll if you don't.
#17
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