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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
No simple way to get to them. Have plenty of space to stage the parts as they come off to aid in replacement. Be extra cautious with the bolts holding the jugs. They can strip out of the case or worse fracture the case easily just disassembling.
I once postponed doing the base gaskets by using some sealing epoxy over the area that leaked. It then developed into head gasket blow out. That's when the overhaul began. Bored .20 over and bumped up the compression to 9.6:1. Then it needed a better carb so S&S Super E along with the EV27 cam. Nice combination, as long as your tearing it down.
We tape off the outside of the cylinder and simply glass bead the surface free and void of any gasket material.
Leaves a beautiful finish.
Same/same on the cylinder head gasket surface.
No marks/gouges left from a scaper, no Rolox wheels being used too aggressively, and no aerosol gasket remover to attack the powder coating.
Our method here for probably 20 years now.
Scott
Never owned a Sportster but found Genuine James Silicone Bead Base Gaskets to always solve oil weeping from a torn paper base gasket on my evo. They are a little thicker than the paper but IMO well worth the investment.
The flexible paper-gasket used on those Evo XL and BT bases are to cover up that HD, DID NOT, machine those bases.
If one looks closely, you can see where the OD of the spigot was turned, and the tool stopped, leaving tooling marks, and no tool marks on the base.
The base is "as cast".
A GOOD casting, but nonetheless an unmachined casting, in HD's attempt to cut corners, and create higher profit margins for themselves and the company sharholders.
No more complicated than that.
Same game with the pressed togather TC cranks.
I'll climb off my soap box now............hehehe.
Scott
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