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oil won't go drain into tank

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  #21  
Old 06-18-2017, 01:23 PM
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Well... It appears of recent, I am certainly not the sharpest tool in the shed. It looks like that was the problem. (Not letting it warm up first.) Going to have to do a little looking into this to understand why. If the oil tank drain plug is directly below Oil Tank..... why the hell wouldn't it just naturally drain out (Whether warm or cold). I don't get it???

Any information on operation would be appreciated or if you can direct me where to look. Not sure my shop manual indicates that as I would assume it was written for people who already know how the overall system works.

Thanks people and sorry to have bugged you with moronic questions. Guess it was just my turn.


Mac
 
  #22  
Old 06-18-2017, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mac801
Yes Sir... that's the drain plug I remove.

How Much Oil Drained Out...? DAMNIT.... I think I screwed up.... I didn't warm up the bike first. Wouldn't the oil drain from the tank with drain plug removed? But ya.... I don't think it drained enough... it was late, was not in best mood and ya... It did not register that the amount that drained out did not look sufficient to match what "should" have been in there.

When refilling... I put ONE quart in and it's about to overflow. I'm on my way out to button things up and start it and see if that does anything. I know it says to warm it up but didn't think (obviously) that it would affect it to that degree.

Once fired up, If it drops level down I'll drain it again and go from there. Damn... If that's the case, I'll need to go get another new filter correct? (I know answer is yes but I guess I'm hoping that somehow I'm wrong there too...... SON OF A.....)

Again.. thanks very much. Appreciate your time and patience on us...??? Less than capable mechanics?

Mac
It would have little effect on it being hot or cold. You actually may have a problem with the engine unless you checked the dip stick before draining it and it was up on the stick. If you did do that and it was on the stick, there is trash in the bottom of the oil tank. Run a piece of soft single core wire up thru the drain hose.
If that get's it going, I would take the tank off and clean it. Would not want it going the other way. Unless you have the special disconnect for the pipes and are pretty skilled, pay someone to do it. Pretty involved pulling that tank.
 
  #23  
Old 06-18-2017, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Mac801
Yes Sir... that's the drain plug I remove.

How Much Oil Drained Out...? DAMNIT.... I think I screwed up.... I didn't warm up the bike first. Wouldn't the oil drain from the tank with drain plug removed? But ya.... I don't think it drained enough... it was late, was not in best mood and ya... It did not register that the amount that drained out did not look sufficient to match what "should" have been in there.

When refilling... I put ONE quart in and it's about to overflow. I'm on my way out to button things up and start it and see if that does anything. I know it says to warm it up but didn't think (obviously) that it would affect it to that degree.

Once fired up, If it drops level down I'll drain it again and go from there. Damn... If that's the case, I'll need to go get another new filter correct? (I know answer is yes but I guess I'm hoping that somehow I'm wrong there too...... SON OF A.....)

Again.. thanks very much. Appreciate your time and patience on us...??? Less than capable mechanics?

Mac
You need to warm the bike up enough to get any oil that may have leaked into in motor back into the oil tank. Also you need to crack the cap on the oil tank so that air can flow into the tank while the tank drains. If you don't you can get a vacuum and oil stays in the tank..

OldEnuf2NoBtr mentions this on the original part of the thread.
 
  #24  
Old 06-18-2017, 06:39 PM
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One of the 3 lines going to the tank is a vent. So the oil will run out with the cap on unless the vent is stopped up. If it is stopped up, that would be a problem and would starve the oil pump.

That is a very good point on running a Softail to pick up oil that has drained into the engine. As they get old, oil leaks by the oil pump and the check on the filter and runs into the motor. Mine will lose almost 1/2 way down on the dipstick in a few months. However, it refills into the tank in just a few minutes of running. It's of course always helpful to have a warm motor when changing the oil.
 
  #25  
Old 06-18-2017, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
One of the 3 lines going to the tank is a vent. So the oil will run out with the cap on unless the vent is stopped up. If it is stopped up, that would be a problem and would starve the oil pump.

.
What vent?

If the valves in the heads are working correctly, the only enough oil to create a vacuum inside the motor will run out.. The valves are one way tho some will leak at low reverse flow allowing oil to drain.
 
  #26  
Old 06-19-2017, 01:52 AM
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Ripsaw Wrote:
One of the 3 lines going to the tank is a vent. So the oil will run out with the cap on unless the vent is stopped up. If it is stopped up, that would be a problem and would starve the oil pump.

That is a very good point on running a Softail to pick up oil that has drained into the engine. As they get old, oil leaks by the oil pump and the check on the filter and runs into the motor. Mine will lose almost 1/2 way down on the dipstick in a few months. However, it refills into the tank in just a few minutes of running. It's of course always helpful to have a warm motor when changing the oil.

Max Headflow Wrote:
What vent?
If the valves in the heads are working correctly, the only enough oil to create a vacuum inside the motor will run out.. The valves are one way tho some will leak at low reverse flow allowing oil to drain.
----------
Mac:
So when I noted in previous post that it worked after letting machine warm up- What I did was after it warmed up a bit I drained engine oil. Not sure if it was 3.5 Quarts, but it was close. Looked like the amount I would expect to see. After Refilling oil (It took close to 3.5) so it appears all is back to normal? Engine Oil light did not come back on (No filter removed) and all sounds normal and feels operating properly.

Ripsaw, do you still recommend the wire methods? My current plan is to ride for a few more days and keep checking it. Anyway, anyone have any another suggestions? it looks good and runs great.

Thanks again for all the help.

Mac
 

Last edited by Mac801; 06-19-2017 at 01:59 AM. Reason: Fix Spelling
  #27  
Old 06-19-2017, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
What vent?

If the valves in the heads are working correctly, the only enough oil to create a vacuum inside the motor will run out.. The valves are one way tho some will leak at low reverse flow allowing oil to drain.
Numerous points have been brought up. In reference to my commit on the oil tank draining. The tank itself has four pipe attachments to it. Those 4 openings and of course the cap at the top actually make five.

The upper of three side pipes (Label 4 in attachment) coming in from the side is a tank vent. Even if you do not remove the cap, oil will run out. Sure it will be faster and you really should pull up cap since it would be restricted by the sealed engine at the head vents but as that third attachment says, like the primary, shares the transmission vent..


You should at a minimum run the engine a few minutes to get all the oil into the tank just in case it has drained into the motor.

You should also note where it is on the stick before draining and of course note stick level on a regular basis as you use your bike.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 07:47 AM.
  #28  
Old 06-19-2017, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Numerous points have been brought up. In reference to my commit on the oil tank draining. The tank itself has four pipe attachments to it. Those 4 openings and of course the cap at the top actually make five.

The upper of three side pipes (Label 4 in attachment) coming in from the side is a tank vent. Even if you do not remove the cap, oil will run out. Sure it will be faster and you really should pull up cap since it would be restricted by the sealed engine at the head vents but as that third attachment says, like the primary, shares the transmission vent..


You should at a minimum run the engine a few minutes to get all the oil into the tank just in case it has drained into the motor.

You should also note where it is on the stick before draining and of course note stick level on a regular basis as you use your bike.

The picture you show only displays 3 of the lines. 1 and 2 are the same line.. It doesn't show the oil drain line line..
 
  #29  
Old 06-19-2017, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
The picture you show only displays 3 of the lines. 1 and 2 are the same line.. It doesn't show the oil drain line line..
..Are you serious, 5 years old or are you just wanting to argue. I showed the vent hose 4 and where it goes as explained by the Service manual. That is why you truly would not need to remove the cap where you pour in the oil.
If you need to see the drain hose, take your flashlight and look under the bottom edge of the tank. It is a black rubber hose off a fitting going to the plug fitting on the frame crossbar. It is not hose 1. That is the input for the pressure side of the oil pump just in case that is where you are confused.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 06-19-2017 at 09:54 AM.
  #30  
Old 06-19-2017, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
..Are you serious, 5 years old or are you just wanting to argue. I showed the vent hose 4 and where it goes as explained by the Service manual. That is why you truly would not need to remove the cap where you pour in the oil.
If you need to see the drain hose, take your flashlight and look under the bottom edge of the tank. It is a black rubber hose off a fitting going to the plug fitting on the frame crossbar. It is not hose 1. That is the input for the pressure side of the oil pump just in case that is where you are confused.
I think what you are missing is that the vent hose is only used to equalize the pressure between the oil tank and engine case.. It does not vent to the outside. The valves in the cylinder heads on twincams are 1 way so there when they are functioning properly, there is nothing to replace the volume of oil as it drains. You'll get some oil and it will stop when the pressure in the pressure in the engine case / oil tank drops to the point where the oil flow stops.. The drain hose/ plug long enough and small enough that air may not be able to flow back up the hose and allow the tank to drain.

Baggers and dynas will gurgle oil out oil because the drain is directly at the oil tank, but they flow better, if you pop the tank cap..

I'm not sure why you don't understand this.. It's kind like popping the plug on a fork tube and expecting all the oil to flow out without the top cap off.
 


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