doing 259 cams 58 mm TB perfect fit rods and 10.5 to 1 pistons will my stock springs support these cams or do I need to change em ...im not doing heads ...anyone done this set up without heads ??? thanks

 

If you're not going to do any head work with everything that you've stated that you're planning on swapping out it's pretty much going to be a waste of money. If you're not going to allow the engine to breath then all the high lift cams, big bore TB's, and high compression pistons in the world won't get you anywhere. You're going to end up with a dog that's going to be almost impossible to tune correctly. You've got to match all the components of a build not just 3/4 of them. And yes you should change out the springs if you decide to continue. A stock OE head will support a cam lift of .560 and .590 with the upgraded springs.

 

Actually, OEM springs from '07 up will support .600" lift but, due to sloppy factory tolerances, it would be a good idea to check for coil bind during installation. The stock springs are fine unless you intend to spend a lot of time above 5000rpms. Contrary to others and for most applications, heavy springs are not required and contribute to valve train noise; a minority opinion for sure but mine none the less.

If you are just looking for some improvement, forget the 58mm T/B and stay away from cams with much later intake valve close events (like the 259) that will reduce CCP. If you must stick with HD cams, the SE204 will work and those that have installed that cam with 1.7 ratio rockers have had some surprising results. If open to aftermarket cams, the Andrews 48 would work well also.

These suggestions are made in the context of a cam only upgrade. As the previous post suggests, head work makes everything better and opens up cam selection to many others. But without head work, the components like the 58mm T/B, 10.5 pistons and longer cams like the 259 are a waste of money. JMHO.

 

Stock springs will support up to .575 lift in most applications

 

stock heads will flow in the 225 @ 28" and start to flow backwards at around .525 lift.a bigger lift cam & bigger T. body is a waste of $$ (do the build right,get some headwork done)

 

just to let all know I did this build the way I said I was going to do it ..I did put the heavy springs in the heads and seals with no head work ..I did put the 58 mm on with 259 cams and 10.5 to 1 screamin eagle pistons and im very impressed bike runs great and is very strong ...my numbers are 105hp and 114 tq ....I did this build very cheap because im a shopper and I do my own work.... very little money spent with great results

 

How flat is the curve??

 

Peak numbers, let's see the chart. SAE or STD? What gear? Just think what it would have done if the heads had been worked to take full advantage of the other upgrades and I am guessing the curve would look a lot better too.

 

Hey DJL Looking for a cam only install 2010 FLHTK do you think the SE 585 would be ok , only asking as you indicated that stock springs support up to .600 valve lift , fuel moto said up to .575 cam is .585 I do not want to do other work , or do you think the 204 is still a better bet

 

I will have a set of se-585 if you Want to pick up a cheap set soon lol