Engine Mechanical Topics Discussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.

Pushrod removal?

  #1  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:05 AM
Dieselhed's Avatar
Dieselhed
Dieselhed is offline
Cruiser
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 204
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Pushrod removal?

Picked up a 2009 street glide and I'm removing some motor parts for Powder Coat. The bike has Andrews 37H cams (chain) and Andrews EZ install adjustable steel pushrods. Since I am removing both upper and lower rocker boxes, is it possible to just pull the pushrods out from the top instead of collapsing them? I know each cylinder has to be on the base circle before removal and I do have a service manual. Just trying to avoid the whole turning the nuts, counting the flats, etc... I also drained all of the fluids three weeks ago in preparation for this. Would the lifters have bled down or would they still be pumped up? Thanks in advance
 
  #2  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:32 AM
ntraindavefl's Avatar
ntraindavefl
ntraindavefl is offline
Road Warrior
Join Date: May 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 1,845
Received 333 Likes on 234 Posts
Default

They should be considerably bled down by now. And yes u should just pull the rods out the top and theoretically u can reinstall them as is but many will advise to start over with the adjustment process upon reinstall.
 
  #3  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:51 AM
djl's Avatar
djl
djl is offline
HDF Community Team

Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: san antonio
Posts: 12,003
Received 2,015 Likes on 1,491 Posts
Default

I would readjust, whether removed from top or bottom. However, if you plan to remove them from the top, make sure you put each pushrod back on the lifter it came from. You will also have to loosen the rocker support plate to get enough clearance to remove the pushrods so make sure both valves are fully closed and springs unloaded.
 
  #4  
Old 01-12-2016, 09:37 AM
Dieselhed's Avatar
Dieselhed
Dieselhed is offline
Cruiser
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 204
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I was afraid you guys were going to say that. Lol The rocker arm support plate will be off anyway as I am going to Powder Coat the lower box as well. Another thing I am curious about, I'm going to be using all Harley OEM gaskets and seals. Should I replace all the bolts holding the rocker boxes to the heads or can I reuse the old ones? Being in the head for 30,000 miles I'm sure they've seen some heat. I assume to make sure all the oil is out of the bolt holes and possibly chase the threads to clean them? Or is this just overkill ?
 
  #5  
Old 01-12-2016, 11:28 AM
djl's Avatar
djl
djl is offline
HDF Community Team

Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: san antonio
Posts: 12,003
Received 2,015 Likes on 1,491 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dieselhed
I was afraid you guys were going to say that. Lol The rocker arm support plate will be off anyway as I am going to Powder Coat the lower box as well. Another thing I am curious about, I'm going to be using all Harley OEM gaskets and seals. Should I replace all the bolts holding the rocker boxes to the heads or can I reuse the old ones? Being in the head for 30,000 miles I'm sure they've seen some heat. I assume to make sure all the oil is out of the bolt holes and possibly chase the threads to clean them? Or is this just overkill ?
I have reused those fasteners many time. If you chase the threads, use a thread chaser instead of a tap, if you have a set. Blow the holes out with compressed air, apply a bit of blue Loctite and torque to spec. Don't forget that o-ring between rocker support plate and the lower rocker box and pay attention to the orientation of the gasket between the lower rocker box and cylinder head. Also might want to replace the head breathers with the later stamped breathers (PN 26500002) which are easier to R/R and more efficient and a cheap upgrade.
 
  #6  
Old 01-12-2016, 12:13 PM
Dieselhed's Avatar
Dieselhed
Dieselhed is offline
Cruiser
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 204
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks DJL. Got the new stamped breathers on order. May even vent to the atmosphere as well. I do not have a thread chaser though, And was thinking about buying a set. Do you think it's really necessary? Or maybe just run a Q-tip down there to make sure there's no residual oil?
 
  #7  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:30 PM
djl's Avatar
djl
djl is offline
HDF Community Team

Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: san antonio
Posts: 12,003
Received 2,015 Likes on 1,491 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dieselhed
Thanks DJL. Got the new stamped breathers on order. May even vent to the atmosphere as well. I do not have a thread chaser though, And was thinking about buying a set. Do you think it's really necessary? Or maybe just run a Q-tip down there to make sure there's no residual oil?
If this is the first time those fasteners are being removed, it wouldn't hurt to clean them. The original fasteners had factory applied thread locker and some could still be in the threads. Having said that, I don't think it is necessary. If you have a tap, use it and also clean the threads of the bolts; all will be OK. Vent to the atmosphere is a good idea.
 
  #8  
Old 01-12-2016, 02:55 PM
tstroud's Avatar
tstroud
tstroud is offline
Tourer
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Adjusting the pushrods isn't much different than adjusting the rocker arms on a Small Block Chevy, It is just in a different place. Counting flats is just a convenient reference point. It all boils down to finding "0" lash, adding a specified amount of preload to the lifter and locking it down. The amount of turns on the adjuster will be directly related to the thread pitch. Make sure you know what thread pitch is on your pushrods and how much preload your particular lifters like. Then you will know where to set the adjustment to make everything happy.
 
  #9  
Old 01-12-2016, 03:56 PM
djl's Avatar
djl
djl is offline
HDF Community Team

Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: san antonio
Posts: 12,003
Received 2,015 Likes on 1,491 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tstroud
Adjusting the pushrods isn't much different than adjusting the rocker arms on a Small Block Chevy, It is just in a different place. Counting flats is just a convenient reference point. It all boils down to finding "0" lash, adding a specified amount of preload to the lifter and locking it down. The amount of turns on the adjuster will be directly related to the thread pitch. Make sure you know what thread pitch is on your pushrods and how much preload your particular lifters like. Then you will know where to set the adjustment to make everything happy.
Where most err with pushrod adjustment on a Harley is not counting flats, etc. but making sure the lifter is on the heel (base circle) of the cam when adjusting. The flat count can be spot on but if the pushrod was adjusted in the overlap position or anywhere other than the base circle of the cam lobe, there will be lash in the valve train.
 
  #10  
Old 01-12-2016, 05:23 PM
Tired's Avatar
Tired
Tired is offline
Elite HDF Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SWMO
Posts: 3,598
Received 4,423 Likes on 1,687 Posts
Default

I can't think of one good reason that they need to be re-adjusted. You aren't pulling the heads. Nor shaving them. Not changing head gasket thickness. Not spin dropping the jugs for deck height. Not changing valves stem protrusion or seats. You get the idea. The only possible difference would be rocker box to head, gasket thickness difference. Can't imagine that being much if any.

Why would you re-adjust the pushrods? Just bored?
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Pushrod removal?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:21 PM.