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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I recently found out that I need a rebuild on my motor. I have an 02 dyna with the stock 88 and recently came across a 96" motor from a 2011 Road glide with 17k miles on it. I know the RG is injected and I have a carb. Can I bolt the intake mani on and put the carb on like normal or is there more to it?
I can probably get it for a good price and wanted ask the pros here in the forums if it would work before I bought.
I did search the forum before creating this thread and didn't find anything to answer specifically.
Not without a lot of work and $$. Rebuild your motor to 98". If funds are available, install a mild cam and have heads "street" ported. That configuration is a basic top end overhaul, will cost a lot less in cost and labor and will run circles around a 2011 96" Roadglide.
Not without a lot of work and $$. Rebuild your motor to 98". If funds are available, install a mild cam and have heads "street" ported. That configuration is a basic top end overhaul, will cost a lot less in cost and labor and will run circles around a 2011 96" Roadglide.
Thanks for your reply.
I have a fresh 95" top end with ported heads I was going to put on with the 510 cams I have already in the bike before I got the bad news. The shop who was going to assemble it all for me called to let me know they found scoring on lifters and pistons and recommended a rebuild of the lower end before I put the new parts on.
I have a fresh 95" top end with ported heads I was going to put on with the 510 cams I have already in the bike before I got the bad news. The shop who was going to assemble it all for me called to let me know they found scoring on lifters and pistons and recommended a rebuild of the lower end before I put the new parts on.
I would have to see pictures of the lifters but some light scoring on the lifters would not concern me but that can be solved with a new set of lifters. The only way I would take on rebuilding the lower unit was if the crank run out was excessive. You should ask the shop if they have checked crank run out and what it is before they R/R the lower unit. The '02 crank/wheel assembly was one of the most bullet proof lower units the MoCo has produced. Hot forged crank and Timken left side bearing; pretty stout lower unit. No disrespect to your shop but I would be suspicious and drill down with the shop on that point and insist on more information to confirm that rebuilding the lower unit is really necessary.
Not following the "fresh 95" top end" and "piston scoring". If the 95" top end is fresh, the would indicate new pistons. Please clarify.
Talk to Roger at RE Engineering in San Jose. He is local and does great work. Rebuilding your current engine will save you headaches down the road.
Garrman
I heard about RE and tried to call them a few times with no answers. VM box is full so I can't leave a message. I need to just go to the shop but work schedule is jacked to get over there during the week.
Originally Posted by djl
I would have to see pictures of the lifters but some light scoring on the lifters would not concern me but that can be solved with a new set of lifters. The only way I would take on rebuilding the lower unit was if the crank run out was excessive. You should ask the shop if they have checked crank run out and what it is before they R/R the lower unit. The '02 crank/wheel assembly was one of the most bullet proof lower units the MoCo has produced. Hot forged crank and Timken left side bearing; pretty stout lower unit. No disrespect to your shop but I would be suspicious and drill down with the shop on that point and insist on more information to confirm that rebuilding the lower unit is really necessary.
Not following the "fresh 95" top end" and "piston scoring". If the 95" top end is fresh, the would indicate new pistons. Please clarify.
I've attached a couple photos of the lifters and also one of a piston. I don't think he checked the run out because he didn't remove the cam cover.
The bike has 510 gear cams from the previous owner which performed well with the stock 88". I decided to get a new 95" top end for a winter upgrade. I know to run gear cams the run out cannot be more than .003 or something like that. would that have changed? I've never removed the cam plate from the bike.
The new 95" top end I have is a kit with portered heads and flat top pistons. I wanted to throw this on the bike to get a little more power out of it. I originally had asked the shop to gap the rings and set on the pistons with placing them inside the barrels. Dropped the bike off one morning and got a call in the afternoon with their findings.
How many miles on the motor? The piston scuffing doesn't look all that bad depending on mileage but is not an issue since you are replacing the top end. Could be lighting but the lifter scoring looks pretty bad; some metal would have to be traveling in the oil to score a lifter that way. I would slow down a bit and do the homework to figure out where the metal is coming from. Draining the oil and looking for metal particulates would be one of the first things to do; perhaps sending an oil sample to Blackstone labs for testing. Definitely remove the cam cover to take a look and check crank run out. I would be doing some forensic work before pulling the lower unit but that might be the final solution once the homework is done.
How many miles on the motor? The piston scuffing doesn't look all that bad depending on mileage but is not an issue since you are replacing the top end. Could be lighting but the lifter scoring looks pretty bad; some metal would have to be traveling in the oil to score a lifter that way. I would slow down a bit and do the homework to figure out where the metal is coming from. Draining the oil and looking for metal particulates would be one of the first things to do; perhaps sending an oil sample to Blackstone labs for testing. Definitely remove the cam cover to take a look and check crank run out. I would be doing some forensic work before pulling the lower unit but that might be the final solution once the homework is done.
Thanks for your reply!
Bottom end just hit 40K
I was able to drain the oil and surprisingly I didn't get any metal shavings or debris. My next step is to pull the oil pan and check inside there to see if I have anything circulating.
I'm wondering since the piston wear looks to be of the norm that maybe the lifters are old and weren't changed when the last owner did the gear drive cams. He may have went to gear drive because the tensioner exploded and got into the lifter bores but didn't bother changing them when the work was done.
Hmm..... I poked into the crankcase with a bright flashlight while turning the crank and didnt see any chipping or metal in the oil remaining inside.
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