View Poll Results: Which cam for low end torque?
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 132. You may not vote on this poll
Cam poll: best low to mid torque
#81
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: California, Md now Savannah, Ga
Posts: 2,085
Received 266 Likes
on
171 Posts
All American H-D put a nice tune on my new 2009 back in 2008 and it ran perfectly for the next 49,000 miles or so until I got my 2014. My Stage 1 dyno numbers done on the 2014 at the Charleston, SC dealer I bought it from were also in STD and were nearly identical to your Stage 1 STD numbers.
With your exhaust and the new cam STD numbers, I would think you might still have a little more in there but seat of the pants feel means more than numbers. Good luck.
With your exhaust and the new cam STD numbers, I would think you might still have a little more in there but seat of the pants feel means more than numbers. Good luck.
Last edited by Xcrossbow; 04-19-2017 at 04:38 PM.
#82
All that really matters is that the guy that paid for the work is happy.
Just my opinion, I wouldn't be. My feeling is a cam designed for low end grunt should be crossing 100 ft. lbs. torque way before 2800 rpm. The torque line should get up there quickly and stay up there fairly flat past 4000 or 4500 rpm. You have a very pronounced dip down low. Could also be your mufflers either causing or contributing to it.
Just my opinion, I wouldn't be. My feeling is a cam designed for low end grunt should be crossing 100 ft. lbs. torque way before 2800 rpm. The torque line should get up there quickly and stay up there fairly flat past 4000 or 4500 rpm. You have a very pronounced dip down low. Could also be your mufflers either causing or contributing to it.
#83
#84
All that really matters is that the guy that paid for the work is happy.
Just my opinion, I wouldn't be. My feeling is a cam designed for low end grunt should be crossing 100 ft. lbs. torque way before 2800 rpm. The torque line should get up there quickly and stay up there fairly flat past 4000 or 4500 rpm. You have a very pronounced dip down low. Could also be your mufflers either causing or contributing to it.
Just my opinion, I wouldn't be. My feeling is a cam designed for low end grunt should be crossing 100 ft. lbs. torque way before 2800 rpm. The torque line should get up there quickly and stay up there fairly flat past 4000 or 4500 rpm. You have a very pronounced dip down low. Could also be your mufflers either causing or contributing to it.
The following users liked this post:
Bafflingbs (12-06-2018)
#85
I contacted Jamie at Fuel Moto about my fishhook and numbers. He seems like a great guy. He also said it was my pipes causing any losses, as they are a wide open design. He recommended some bolt on inserts, made by DK Customs. I bought the W258's. He said that may aid in my low end torque. Overall, These are good cams, but, 2 mechanics, so far, have said they're not impressed. I reserve my final opinion, till I add the inserts. I think they will be fine for someone with better pipes. 2 into 1's preferred. Anyone know if Dragula makes a ghost pipe for their 2-1? I love the sound of my Bassani DNT's, but, I don't think they're the easiest to tune.
Last edited by Bafflingbs; 05-03-2017 at 12:36 PM.
#86
#87
#88
I'm not sure if they were mentioned on this thread, but I just had the S&S 583 cams installed in my 2003 Road King. Even though S&S says on their site that those are suitable for Softail-Dyna, their advertised rpm range is really good or even better than that of the 551 cams. They were also recommended to me by Kirby from Vee Twin Racing and from my butt-dyno I can say that the attached torque curve is pretty accurate. I'm still in break-in period, but my impression is that in the lower rpms - 2000-2500 is just a bit over the stock cam, but from 2500 you can feel the bike pulling like crazy.
Blue = stock 110” <br/>Orange = S&S 551 cam<br/>Red = S&S 583 cam<br/>Green = S&S 585 cam
Blue = stock 110” <br/>Orange = S&S 551 cam<br/>Red = S&S 583 cam<br/>Green = S&S 585 cam
#89