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things to look out for while checking my run out

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  #21  
Old 04-27-2017, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cvaria
Thanks all.

I didnt even thin about the tensioners since i was trying to get rid of the chain. If the run out is beyond .003 i will need to continue to deal with them.

the more i look at the job. The more i think the bike will just need to be down for a week or so. I'd need to pull the push rods, rockers blah blah, might as well do the cylinders and all and not waste the gaskets. So i will tear it down. Test to run out, order parts based on the reading, then let the bike sit until all the good arrive. Fun times.
If you use adjustable pushrods no need to pull rocker boxes unless you want to


Edit
Should have read the whole thread befor commenting. Should have your heads done. But thats easy to say when its someone elses money!
 

Last edited by Lunchboxx; 04-27-2017 at 01:37 PM.
  #22  
Old 04-27-2017, 02:50 PM
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Not sure what the OP is working on but all this "sky is falling" about crank run out is unnecessary. Sisu says it is "common" which it is not. The OP should not be afraid to run gear drive cams if that is what he wants to do provide crank run out is within the generally accepted .003" TIR. Agreed the new roller chain/hydro tensioner setup is more forgiving but if every one planning a bigger bore build, Hoban Brothers would have a severe backlog.

Of course, the OP should make the call on which cam drive system he wants to install but the decision should not be influenced by the misunderstanding that pulling the lower unit and sending it off to Hoban Brothers is standard procedure for a motor build up. Plenty of similar builds on this forum done the OEM cranks. With no headwork, S&S 585 cams and a stock head gasket the OP is looking at 195psi CCP which is manageable and compression releases make it even more so.

One disclaimer would be that if the bike is an '07 model, perhaps addressing the crank would be in order. As usual, JMHO.
 
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2017, 03:51 PM
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I said common because I never saw so many topics about the crank shifting on Any other vehicle. Mine did it too. I also said they don't all do it.
Gear drive is a gamble "I" wouldn't take on a stock Harley crank.
There's nothing wrong with the new style chain setup.

OP.. I would like to know what your runout is when you open it up for cams.
 
  #24  
Old 04-27-2017, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Sisu
I said common because I never saw so many topics about the crank shifting on Any other vehicle. Mine did it too. I also said they don't all do it.
Gear drive is a gamble "I" wouldn't take on a stock Harley crank.
There's nothing wrong with the new style chain setup.

OP.. I would like to know what your runout is when you open it up for cams.
not measuring it anymore, i moved on. sent back the fueling tool. i can live with the chain..

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...l#post16181498
 

Last edited by cvaria; 04-27-2017 at 07:41 PM.
  #25  
Old 04-27-2017, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Sisu
I said common because I never saw so many topics about the crank shifting on Any other vehicle. Mine did it too. I also said they don't all do it.
Gear drive is a gamble "I" wouldn't take on a stock Harley crank. There's nothing wrong with the new style chain setup. OP.. I would like to know what your runout is when you open it up for cams.
Never said there was anything wrong with the late roller chain/hydro tensioner setup; I don't think there is anything wrong with the early link chain tensioner setup once the tensioner shoes are replaced with some CYCO shoes and a Baisley spring installed. I run he early OEM plate on a stout little 95" motor with crank runout at .0025" and 190psi CCP with gear drive cams; 35K miles and, guess what, crank run out is still .0025".

The '07 year was the year noted for a higher incidence of crank failures; new supplier with quality issues and the cranks have gotten better since and I don't consider gear driven cams a "risk" in a late model bike with a garden variety street build that hit the 100/100 mark assuming crank run out from the factory is within the .003" TIR spec that is generally accepted as "safe" for gear drive cams.

The MoCo was smart to introduce the billet plate, high capacity pump, hydro tensioner, roller chain kit as an alternative to gear driven cams. It is a great option for guys like you that consider gear drive cams risky; they have sold a ton.

Each to his own; I happen to like gear driven cams but would revert to the chain driven cams if I thought it the "safer" option for a particular configuration.
 
  #26  
Old 04-28-2017, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by djl

...roller chain kit...
what is this
 
  #27  
Old 04-28-2017, 05:58 AM
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How long before you're back up and running?
 
  #28  
Old 04-28-2017, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by pingman68
How long before you're back up and running?
The 103 is still safe from my hands for a week or so. I have to wrap up another project and make sure that the s&s cylinders are true/within spec.
 
  #29  
Old 04-28-2017, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cvaria
what is this
The roller chain for cam chain gear drives has been around in the automotive high performance parts line for years. It's a high rev replacement of the common used square edged gear cog chain links. Just what it says those links are instead individual rollers. Great improvement over the other.
hope that helps.
"roller chain kit" reference is the chain and gear set required for this type of chain.
 

Last edited by Taggs; 04-28-2017 at 06:08 PM.
  #30  
Old 04-28-2017, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Taggs
The roller chain for cam chain gear drives has been around in the automotive high performance parts line for years. It's a high rev replacement of the common used square edged gear cog chain links. Just what it says those links are instead individual rollers. Great improvement over the other.
hope that helps.
"roller chain kit" reference is the chain and gear set required for this type of chain.

What's a "square edged gear cog chain links"
 


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