I have an oil leak behind my timing housing.. I thought it could be my cam seal. I took off my derby cover but it doesn't appear to have oil in that area it's like behind the housing that is dripping from at the bottom. Its slowly getting worse. I will appreciate any help

 

You need to add a signature line to your user account similar to mine about your bike. The derby is on the clutch side. That is the timer cover. Mine even still has that cover but nothing is under mine. Yours obviously is pre 99 since you have a module Keep wiping and see where it is leaking. Could even be the oil filter blowing back there unless you start clean and watch.

 

Ill make that update to my account but for now it's a 1997 FLHRI stock. Its leaking between the block and that chrome timing housing at the bottom. Ive already cleaned and road and thats the leak. About the size of a quarter on my garage floor after a good ride

 

Sounds like you have an Evo or sporty.. If the seal ain't leaking, it's likely the cam cover gasket or a crack/flaw in the cover. Check the screws to make sure they are tight.. One thing to note on those bikes is that pushrods / lifters need to be removed if you pull the cam cover / gasket. Buy the factory manual if planing on doing any work. leave it in the bathroom as reading material..

 

My HD manual will be here in the morning. Ill take another photo showing the leak

 

On mine with the stock exhaust, I can just remove the exhaust shield and get that cover off. You will probably need to remove the front exhaust pipe. Then a quality Harley OEM gasket and just a film of black RTV on it will fix it forever. Do not use more than a film since you do not want a bead inside the cover. It can break off later and block drain passages. Wipe the outer edge only after the RTV dries and that small bead will roll right off.

 

Do you know when I pull it off will all the oil drain out on the motor

 

Your bike's oil tank is attached to the bottom of the transmission since this motor is considered dry sump. However, there will be about 6-26ozs in there. Usually, will drop the dip stick to add once you fire it back up ad shut it down and recheck the level. The pickup return side of the oil pump leaves this in there for splash lubrication for certain parts.

So when you pop the cover, have a pan and cardboard spread out. You need to be a pretty good mechanic to do this. Proper tools and service manual. However, if it is not your norm, a service manual will not suffice to learn this. Those screws are easy to break or strip out. That cover is dowel and usually stuck like crazy. I have a cover I put on that small timer cover. It has a large center hole for a 3/8 long piece of all thread. I use a sliding hammer to pop cover.
Think I am seeing a EVO there. So be careful that parts don't spill out of there and you sit there scratching your head how it all lines up. it's all timed and gears have to be exactly indexed to marks.

 

The good thing is I'm really mechanically inclined. With a garage full of tools. But I've never worked on a Harley I got my true Harley-Davidson manual and pulling a cover and being mindful of the bolts doesn't seem like a big deal to me nor does removing the front exhaust however max headflow stated above I have to remove my pushrods and lifters that seems like a more difficult job that I'm not sure I want to attempt do you know if he's correct on that statement

 

Finally noticed the pic.. You got an EVO. Depending on whether it's a softail or dyna/bagger, the oil tank will be mounted above or below.. Pulling the cam cover should only dump about a cup off oil unless the check ball in the pump ain't working.

You should pull the pushrods before removing the clutch cover. Pulling the pushrods on the a stock evo is a PITA as you need to pull the rocker covers. You can cut the time by chopping out the pushrods with bolt cutters and installing quick install adjustable pushrods.

If the bike has any miles on it, it's worth replacing the lifters and the inner cam bearing. Some special tools are required to do this..

If the bike is under 40K, you might simply find the leak and gop some high temp sillycone over the leak.