just putting the heads back on the bike, manual says 120-144 inch pounds then go to 15-17 ft-lbs then mark bolt draw line 90 degress on the head and tighten bolt till u hit the 90 degree mark u made, what im curious about is without the torque angle gauge. ya the pencil marks on bolt and head tell me when I hit 90 degree rotation , what I would like to know is when hitting the 90 degree point what is the actual torque up to when u hit 90.
fuel moto video doesn't use the 90 degree method goes from 17ft-lbs to 35 then final 42 ft-lbs
another training video from place like whyotech has a real fancy torque wrench beeps at torque values and also beeps at 90 degrees, as a test they marked head with 90 degree pencil marks did 17ft-lbs then set wrench to 90 degrees wrench beeps at 90 pencil marks dead on but the torque reading that the wrench also gives out while doing the 90 degrees was only 33 ft-lbs.
so whats the better number 42 or 33
for now ive stopped at 17ft-lbs I only have a pretty primitive torque wrench with the long pointy finger not the fancy click type , pretty sure when I did it before I was around 38-40 when I hit 90 degrees with my antique wrench

 

Are you using stock head gaskets or aftermarket MLS gaskets?
My opinion:
If using stock gaskets go with the manual.
If using MLS gaskets, go with manufacturers recommendation.

 

The torque + 90* is to achieve the proper stretch on the bolt. It is more accurate than using a high torque setting because it can be effected by dirty threads or friction under the head.

 

I used oem gaskets and chased all the threads.
Torque + 90° and no leaks

 

was curious to the stock thickness too mic one up .055 thought they were closer to .040 maybe once compressed they will end up at .040 guess Ill do the 90 degree turn just didn't want to over tighten the bolts

 

Final torque on cylinder head bolts has been 42 ft/lbs here, for well over 25 years.
Scott

 

You have been very helpful. The plateau horn u suggested worked very well on the 96 inch cylinders