I always thought that STD was actual numbers at the rear wheel where as SAE is an averaged calculation taking into consideration, the different parts of the country and how the altitude and barometric pressure affect the amount of air that the motor can pump....

 

Both SAE and STD are corrected numbers. THey are corrected for different atmospheric conditions. SAE is standard in the US as it corrects to the average atmospheric condition in Detroit Mich. (when they came up with SAE Detroit was the main hub of the auto industry so that's why they picked it). STD corrects to another region of the world (i'm not really sure where). There is the option to use UNCORRECTED which is actual numbers produced in the conditions the bike was ran in. STD conditions favor SAE conditions by about a 4-6% average (depending on the actual condtions the bike was ran in)

 

Seems to me that most tuners provide sheets in SAE, So when I see a std sheet I find it odd. In this case this 124 Is a runner either way. At that power level it doesn't even matter. The shape of the curve would probably remain the same I'm guessing. Impressive either way. I'm doing a 124 with 640s now. Its the s&s hot set up straight up in kit form, and a se58 tb. Won't be anywhere near this threads numbers or curve shape.

 

With as far to the left as that torque curve is , you're not gonna feel the difference between SAE and STD .
Scott

 

Bingo!...........lol!
Scott

 

I agree with this as well. Potential customers of theirs posted here asking to see it in SAE, you'd think it would be easier to just post the sheet then play these cat and mouse games.

 

As far as I'm concerned , the only use for a dyno sheet is to find the right shift points for drag racing . Other than that it's bragging rights , without having to whip out your ***** .
I wouldn't give a rats butt if I got a dyno sheet , as long as the combo worked .
Scott

 

Most people do not have a clue how to really read a dyno sheet. The Internet has turned it into a game of how to trick the dyno for bigger numbers. If 3/4 of the riders would be honest they only run the engine from idle to 3500 RPM 95% of the time they ride the bike. So pick you poison when you read them anymore these days. Where the torque curve is and how it is shaped tells you so much more than what the peak numbers tell you anyways. For a daily driver big numbers typically suck when it comes to real world performance, as you are out of the performance area most of the time. This sheet shows 120 Ft Lbs about 2500 which is good and if you drop it to SAE that would most likely be about 115 Ft Lbs which is still good. The shape of the curve is nice but I would like to see the runs start a little further down the RPM scale (1500) as that is what you use each and everyday you ride it. The dyno doesn't give a rats *** where you start it, but typically they do not look as good, as when you start it at the higher RPMS.

 

Looks actually like 124tq at 2500rpm so 120 SAE lets say.
And I hate to disagree here but the only time anyone should see 1500rpm is for 1/2 second off idle, or if one rides parking lots all day. 2200/2300 rpm is a good place to start a big motor pull IMO.

 

If your proprietary port work and build was all that, you would have just posted your "dyno report" in SAE so that I could compare it to other builders.

Your lack of posting it, tells me all that I need to know about you.

I'll stick with the S&S crate.