OK, so I watched the videos, I work with tools for 22 years, I LOVE working on bikes, no matter how HARD, I'm confident on this task, I plan on putting in the baker compensator while in there, and the M6 primary chain adjuster, my question is, I have a 2008 rocker c, 3k miles, but that bearing, on opposite side of tensioner of inner primary, I see you have to pry out oil seal, well I'm getting all new so I will be installing

, ok heres the only question, to install that bearing, hand fitted? need a tool? also does anyone know the Timken replacement, I feel in love with the quality of there bearings, and Harley's, not so much, re- did all my wheel hubs to double row bearings, and what a difference, between the two....any other pointers, obviously all new seal, o-rings, getting the Cometic primary kit, also those 5 harley bolts that hole inner primary to engine, as the red rubber looked sandwiched in videos I saw, don't want any leaks here

....Upgrading started with the Baker, I did a Hillside 107" build, and the clunking driving me nuts, besides I read on the spring problems w/harley compensator, so I figured, why not get the baker, hell do it right? winter deal.....

and with what I listed is it worth the 1300k$$ to do, I have just over 3k miles...I am going to do M6 tho, no matter what....

 

If I follow. There is no reason to remove anything from the inner primary except the OEM compensator and the adjustor if it will also be replaced. The install is simple, remove the OEM compensator and install the Baker compensator. The left side crank bearing cannot be removed from the outside but the seal can; however, why replace the seal if it is not leaking.

 

EDIT: It just occurred to me that the OP is probably referring to the inner primary bearing and not the crank bearing; my bad. I wasn't sure based on the OPs description of the bearing "but that bearing, on opposite side of tensioner of inner primary". If that is the case, then the IPB can be knocked out but a press will be required to properly install the inner primary bearing.

Care should be taken when installing the inner primary with the new seal. The splines on the main shaft are sharp and any contact with the seal lip will damage the seal and it will leak. I use painters tape around the main shaft splines to protect the seal but there are any number of ways to do this.

 

I had a horrible experience with the M6 after I did my motor upgrades. By horrible I mean the shoe broke apart and sent plastic pieces into the stator. Next thing I know my stator failed. Didn't realize why until I pulled it out and found little plastic shards everywhere. Bottom of the shoe the chain rides on was chipping away.

Contacted hayden about it. They were certain it was my fault and just argued with me. I went into detail on how it was installed and the measurements to which they said was correct but I still must have done something wrong. I was told a replacement shoe would be sent out, I never got it. Went with the Baker attitude adjuster and couldn't be happier.

I replaced my bearing and seal when i put in the attitude adjuster. I had to remove the inner primary to get the stator off so figured why not. My bike at the time though had about ~25k miles. I didn't want to rip it all back out down the road and the parts are cheap enough. I didn't use a press for the bearing, large socket and hammer. Just took my time and tapped it in slowly and evenly. Same with the seal. Press would be ideal though. I'm at 32k miles now with no leaks or odd noises.

 

Baker compensator , (good support too) make sure and take the time too get the chain alignment with in spec , quieter running and les chain wear .... I had to mill .030 off stator to get it dead nuts on. I got the baker manual chain adjuster too... love it .... my chain seemed horribly tight with the automatic oem one ...

 

I ORDERED THE NEWER BAKER ATTITUDE ADJUSTER OR SOMETHING, LOL, I READ SIMILIAR STORYS....do you have to keep adjusting it tho? how does that work out? thats seems like a Pia...if has to be done often?>

 

You can't do the Timken upgrade without splitting the cases... New seal should be fine... Don't worry about the ipb if it wasn't making noise.. a manual adjuster is the only way to go. Auto adjusters tend to keep the primary chain too tight and prematurely stretch it.... Especially if you have a performance motor... Just check it every 10k or every winter.... you'll be fine......

 

yea I read the bakers nicer, how often do you check ti re-djust??
also do you have a softail, and di you have to press bearings in, they go in primary or secondary, haven't gotten that far just order a new Harley Chrome inner , same price Sport Chrome was dinner due, altho I never seen runs shine as nice as theres!!!






there sportt chrome box w rims being naked 4 weeks ago dropped of at indy 3 dats ago, there ansi cgrimg that bracket, snf had poedercosting calipers Pacific Pearl Blue

 

o ameba 2008 Rocker C softail line, where did you get your bearings from? I did Timken $45 a pop, worth every penny!!!

but they fit all the way inside, since 3007 Harleys been getting china SINGLE ROE read up more and more failures, and the stock bering so small ro make it flush outside hub area there a spacer in middle pushing them front HAXK!!!

 

ok, so since, this convo, I have my primary open, on top of my Kevlar, Barnett clutch pack, extra plate, and a SE spring, I installed a variable clutch pack, on top, as I have a new Hillside 107ci build, so I upped, certain areas, I also bought and installed the Baker, thrust bearing assembly, thrust bearing 2x's the size, n o brainer here, only thing I didn't get with the mod, was why did they want the oil spreader top kicked off? I called to make sure, so I have the Attitude adjuster, other side, thrust upgrade, including the Street Door, Larger Bearings etc...told I really didn't need as the axial load wont be a issue with the Armored Attitude Adjuster, Baker said themselves, I did anyway, cant hurt, Black Friday deal, why not

, ok so I did some research on the baker compensators, Twin Power, BDL, I saw a comparison with BDL and Baker, but they had different adjusters, so you tube video really wasn't a good comparison, my question is, I read issues, like your said with clearance, and strangely enough, I read thru SEVERAL threads, and NO ONE MENTIONS, THE measurement of the new sprockets, lining up with there downtown partner? also the shims would have to be larger with baker, as spindle is larger right?
so my question is this, I have 4 options, Baker, which we all assume is king, but I've read on starter problems, baker knowing of spring issues in 2016, is this resolved etc? SE Has a compensatory, , Twin Power, and BDL, I went from heights price to lowest, being I have aforementioned parts listed, not the M6 adjusted, bought the right one, DAMM ITS BIG!!!...LOL....Pro's, Con's , Can I be well of with the Twin Power? seems to look the same and do the same as the baker, more so than others, or the SE....also do any of these setups, realize shims could be a must, and when selling a 500$ part, throwing a few .25 cents washer<there cost> would be a Real complete install?

looking for direction, as of now, old compensator is off, Armored attitude installed, Variable clutch weight on top of modded clutch, and the throw out bearing mod, I have a build thread on here, with pics, of all I bought , and install, the reason I was mentioning the inner primary bearing, as I was thinking, I'm 5 bolts away, from pulling and sending to sport chrome, we all know that side is boring, and chrome is a way smoother surface, perhaps the oil will move around easier, lol, ok ok oak, that was a BS for the wife, not gonna fly with you guys!!! Love to hear some solid input here, thanks!