does any one know the part number for the cam plate up grade to hydraulics tensioners i have a 99 twin cam 88

 

Two different ways to go; Hybrid which will allow early cams or '07 up which will require conversion cams; you can read the description for the other differences and decide which way to go. The 25282-11 kit will is an upgrade to the '07 OEM cam plate so if you choose to go that route, you will need the other ancillary hardware to complete the install, i.e., tensioners, sprockets and chains as well as a set of conversion cams. The 25284-11 setup will be cheaper but will retain the link chain on the inner hydraulic tensioner; still an upgrade IMHO and cheaper.

 

Some great advice on here. I am intending to dive in this winter and upgrade my 05 softail tensioner set up. Am looking for the cheapest option so will likely go cyco pads and leave it at that or may splash out on the hydraulic kit, cam bearings and mild cams. The two questions i have is if i go down the cam route what do i need to do re the efi mapping? $$$ Also, nowhere can i see any instruction on whats involved in keeping original push rods. Everyone on the videos seem to be snap/cut happy! Is it harder to keep originals? My time is free.

 

A fuel management system will be needed to "tune" for the modifications; systems vary from in cost and design. The "pot" type systems allow fuel adjustment but no timing adjustments and are "piggy back" systems which means they live on the bike and trick the OEM ECM; cost less than $300. Flash tuners like the V&H FP3 make adjustments to the OEM ECM and a smart user can get a decent tune by trial and error; self tuning. More advance flash tuners like the DJ Power Vision allow self tuning as well but best approach is a dyno tune. Many tuners by licenses and sell them to the user for $150-$200 so the user does not have to buy the system. A good dyno tune will cost $300-$400.

Using OEM pushrods is a no brainer but some if heads are not decked and cam base circle is same or close to stock cams. Most mild cams have same base circle; just a bit more labor to R/R pushrods from top but, like you said, the extra labor is free.