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.107" crank endplay

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  #21  
Old 01-10-2018, 03:52 PM
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and the answer is.......

.006" and now I feel stupid for even asking the question because I was sure that was where the noise is coming from....

so no timken upgrade, I'll put the SE lefty bearing in and change the balancer bearings and guides and reassemble the engine and turn my attention towards the trans issues...

many thanks for weighing in...
 
  #22  
Old 01-10-2018, 09:23 PM
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NEVERMIND - saw it was already answered.
FYI - don't know how you checked but you can't check endplay on a double roller bearing flywheel if the compensator side is completely removed. It's not like a Timkin where the flywheel is held in place. The endplay is set by the race on the shaft being held in place between the rollers of the bearing.
 

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  #23  
Old 01-10-2018, 09:37 PM
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yeah, I wished the service manual was a little clearer about that, I feel kind of defeated now, thought I had found the problem....
 
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Old 01-11-2018, 06:02 AM
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Any signs of metal in the oil? cut the oil filer open and take a look, might reveal a clue.

An air hammer with a panel cutter bit works good for cutting filters open and not making shavings.

 
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  #25  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:06 AM
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Actually, the engine looks pretty clean, however, I found a fair omount of metal in the trans oil and the input shaft is wiped out and the bearings are destroyed inside the main drive gear.
 
  #26  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bolt54
Actually, the engine looks pretty clean, however, I found a fair omount of metal in the trans oil and the input shaft is wiped out and the bearings are destroyed inside the main drive gear.
I know that sounds real nasty but actually it's not a tough fix but being softail and having to deal with the oil tank adds some time and tedium to the process. The MDG bearings occasionally walk; the outer walking in toward the inner. I don't recall the MY of your bike but the later six speed trannys had a spacer between the inner and outer MDG bearings to prevent that from happening; not so on the five speeds. The repair is a bit messy and time consuming but if you are patient and handy with tools, not a bank breaker. Just be sure when you are done, you are done so you don' t have to go back and deal with that pesky oil tank again.
 
  #27  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:48 AM
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It is a 10. Since the motor and trans are out of the scoot, all that nasty oil tank stuff is already being done anyway. Having an issue getting a new shaft from HD, that could be an issue, should find out today. Debating also doing the Baker MDG but that is probably overkill. I'm going to order the SE left bearing and put the engine back together and sort out the trans. Since I went in looking for a noise (intermittent knock below 1000 rpm sitting still, does not matter whether in or out of gear and goes away above 1100 rpm) when I took everything apart, I am hoping what I found in the trans is it.
 
  #28  
Old 01-11-2018, 11:17 AM
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Sound like you got it... The primary has a way of transferring noise. Better and cheaper the trans than the crank...
 
  #29  
Old 01-11-2018, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bolt54
It is a 10. Since the motor and trans are out of the scoot, all that nasty oil tank stuff is already being done anyway. Having an issue getting a new shaft from HD, that could be an issue, should find out today. Debating also doing the Baker MDG but that is probably overkill. I'm going to order the SE left bearing and put the engine back together and sort out the trans. Since I went in looking for a noise (intermittent knock below 1000 rpm sitting still, does not matter whether in or out of gear and goes away above 1100 rpm) when I took everything apart, I am hoping what I found in the trans is it.
It would be helpful to know what failed first and why but the '10 MDG does have a spacer between the MDG bearings so bearing movement was not the source of the problem and I would agree that the Baker MDG is over kill. Have you tried ordering online from one of the discount dealers like Surdyke, Newcastle, etc.? I always order from Newcastle and there is always a PN that is obsolete ('02 FLHT) or superseded but Newcastle has always delivered within two weeks; never had an issue with availability; just a thought. I have not been a fan of the parts counter guys at a dealership although I am sure some are very competent my limited experience has been less than satisfying. Good luck.
 
  #30  
Old 01-11-2018, 02:46 PM
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My boss owns an indy bike shop in NYC. He has dealt with Moroney with good success and fair pricing because he is a shop owner. I know what you are saying in general about parts people and I do like to look up my own part numbers on Ronnies site.

As to what failed first? Nobody knows. But I have a theory for what it is worth:

Installed cams (andrews 48) and an SE comp (cause everyone said that they were junk) at about 13,000 miles.

At about 45,000 miles, I had the heads ported, the CR set at 9.8:1 and installed S&S 583 chain drive cams (not ez start). That, in conjunction with a primary chain that was running too tight, caused a list of problems that have taken a couple of years to manifest themselves. I think the higher compression with no reliefs contributed to a wasted comp and a worn out starter drive and the noise issues that I have now.

With a Baker comp, a new starter drive and now ez start cams I have addressed all of the issues except the noise which I am hoping will be taken care of by the trans repairs.
 
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