My 110 build on a 2013 RK CVO Need Advice Please
 

So
I while back I decided to redo my 110 in my cvo
With 19k miles
Was gonna do the lifters anyway after reading about failures

So I picked up the SE 110 pro upgrade kit
Consists of
10.5 pistons
259 cams
Upgraded cam bearings ,Loyola
All gaskets,etc

Also adding.....

Power Vision

FM 2/1/2
Supertrapp stouts

SS lifters
Rocker lockers



Well, I did the top end
Everything looked great inside

Opened up the cam chest.....
Cam plate has serious issues

Well I had a new take off with 50 miles on it
Oil pump also

The new take off has the same issues starting as on my 19k mile cam plate

My question is
Is this common?


So I need a replacement cam plate and since I’m replacing it
I prob should do the pump as well
Ive got a new take off pump also
But Now.... I’m a little concerned




What a good replacement for the cam plate and oil pump?
S&S, Fueling,SE ?

That's crazy...you should check your crank runout before you go any further. If it was my choice id get the s and s plate and pump.

I think it's just a cast mark, looked at my old one off my bike and it's the same way.

pump needs to be aligned at instal
 

the pump has to be more or less as centered during the install, after cam plate is on with the oil pump bolts left loose, get rear wheel of ground, put in 6th gear, finger tighten 2 kitty corner bolts and start turning the back wheel, this will allow pump housing to be as centered as possible with what ever run out u have, keeping in mind your within a good spec, my crank run out is .0013 so I'm pretty lucky ,must have been a good day making cranks that day. as your turning the rear wheel start to slowing tighten the oil pump bolts do the 2 opposing ones have haven't tightened yet then criss cross pattern . manual says tighten to 40-45 inch pounds then final tighten to 90-120 inch pounds . think I stopped at 105 on mine, 120 seems like a lot for aluminum but its in the manual. I did put blue lock tight on my bolts

The 110 runs very smooth
No shake at all
Ive not checked my run out yet,but that’s on the list
And,like I stated,the second plate has only 50 miles on it
Factory installed
I’m looking at the S&S!

Also
I’m trying to find a place to buy a set up to measure my crank run out
Anyone have an idea where to get the set up ?
And what exactly do I need to buy to get the job done?
Harbor freight?

I used the dial indicator and magnetic mounting arm from harnor frieght and i used the steel plate that came with the heartland bearing tool to stock the magnet to ,to hold the magnet. I used two holes on the plate off to the right hand side of the cam case, it worked perfect.https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...eee823a9bb.jpgIts kinda hard too see but its the general idea

Excellent
Thank you

OP

What about the cam plate concerns you ? If you're referring to the casting marks that's how all stock cam plates look. Look in the parent material where the pinion shaft comes thru the plate. See if you have any uneven wear or witness marks. Check the run out if you choose but if the cam plate isn't showing any signs and you're using chain cams it probably isn't an issue. If you're going to check crank TIR, check the sprocket shaft side as well. Be prepared for what you might find and decide what you'll do about it.

As for pumps, on my recent build I used an S&S TC3 oil pump.

If a look at pics close
You’ll see that there are actual Cracks in the plate
Very easy to feel also
I do die casting for a living.... unacceptable in any circumstance to me
I’ll check run out today after work