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'04 Road King Classic Motor Upgrades

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Old 06-21-2018, 06:20 PM
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Default '04 Road King Classic Motor Upgrades

So we figured we'd have graduated up to a bagger by now, but we still love the old RKC and decided to freshen her up a little. It's a low miles bike with just under 15k but it doesn't appear the Ultra is in the cards for several years so we thought we'd spice up this ride a little. We just had a long run of not getting to ride a ton....family stuff....life. We ride 2 up almost exclusively. Once in a while I'll ride to work or something. We don't ride interstates often and mainly stay on country roads, state highways....and we try to run as scenic as you can get in Central Illinois.
I'm scheduled to have the following done by a really good local Indy: boring cylinder out to 97, cam plate kit with hydraulic tensioners and oil pump, Feuling 525 cams, TTS Mastertune, Magnaflow slip ons. I already have stage one breather and true duals. I think it'll really wake up the twin cam and be a lot of fun to ride. We plan on a trip to ride the Dragon's Tail next year so the extra oomph will come in handy.
Your thoughts on the upgrades? Cam kit is Feuling. I'm not sure yet exactly which Magnaflows it will get, but probably 4 1/2". My Indy tunes on his dyno and is very meticulous.
 
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Old 06-22-2018, 04:45 AM
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Checkout this dyno sheet. Great low end TQ that carries out to the right.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyno-...sucker-ii.html
 
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Old 06-22-2018, 05:51 AM
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FWIW, those 2004's were notorious for flywheel sissoring.
Some early 2005's, and 2007's in that order.
Scott
 
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:19 AM
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Never cared for the Fueling hardware; better choices IMHO. Save the cam kit money and invest in a "street" port job. Retain the OEM cam plate/pump but replace the OEM tensioners with CYCO tensioners and replace inner and outer cam bearings; the OEM cam plate is actually a pretty robust piece of hardware. With only 15K miles, the pump should not need replacement. If cost is not an issue, there are better cam chest kit upgrades like the SE billet plate, hydro tensioner roller chain setup that would require conversion cams or the S&S cam chest kit

You need to get the compression up; even with a .030" head gasket and larger bore, CCP will be just south of 180psi; not the best for two up, loaded in a heavy touring bike. Pick a cam with an earlier intake close or use a dome piston and shoot for 190psi CCP. Cyclerama 575-2, Andrews 21/26 would be better cam choices IMHO. The true duals are not the best choice for torque but can be over come with the right combination of parts and good compression; head work, better cam selection and good tune are the key. JMHO.
 
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:27 AM
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To add to what Scott pointed out while doing the crank upgrade to the Timken Bearing. Once you have the heads off it's not that much more work to pull the balance of the motor and have the flywheel done and the bearing installed. The balance of your build looks good .. I did S&S Easy Start cams vs compression releases.
 
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Old 06-25-2018, 11:09 AM
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Stopped by Indy today to confirm build and dates, etc.. Changes have been made.

He is now taking the heads from a 2013 Dyna and swapping them out after my cylinder is bored out. He will use and S&S piston (Wiseco). With the head change, it already has the beehive springs so we're now going with Feuling 574 cams. Also going with Fuelpak tuner instead of TTS Mastertune. I also decided on the 4.50" Magnaflow Topgun slip ons.
 

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Old 06-25-2018, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jrsdws
Stopped by Indy today to confirm build and dates, etc.. Changes have been made.

He is now taking the heads from a 2013 Dyna and swapping them out after my cylinder is bored out. He will use and S&S piston (Wiseco). With the head change, it already has the beehive springs so we're now going with Feuling 574 cams. Also going with Fuelpak tuner instead of TTS Mastertune. I also decided on the 4.50" Magnaflow Topgun slip ons.
Don't take this as anything more than constructive advice. I don't have all the build details and certainly could be missing something but unless a domed piston and/or decked heads are part of the plan, you are likely to be disappointed with the results. The '13 heads will flow a bit better than the '04 heads but unless the piston is domed or the heads decked, the later heads will do nothing for compression. Also going backwards on the cam selection; going from 525s with a 42* intake close to the 574s with a 45* intake close, more compression loss. Flat top pistons, stock chamber volume (85-86cc) and .030" head gasket are the plan, a cam set with an intake close of 30*-34* will push CCP up in the 185-190 neighborhood where it needs to be for the torque needed for two up and loaded touring. The decision to go with the Fuelpak tuner in lieu of the TTS Mastertune is also a step backwards as the Fuelpak lacks the capabilities of the TTS Mastertune and a proper dyno tune. A lot of money about to go down the drain but that's JMHO; your ride, you decide.

Ask your indy if he can show you some dyno charts of similar builds; always a good idea to have some idea of what results the build plan will produce.
 
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:34 PM
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Guy says compression ratio will be around 9.9:1 or 10:1? I will talk to him about the tuner, but he has used the Fuelpak a few times and has had good luck with it.
Educate me here....I'm learning. Thanks for helping.
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jrsdws
Guy says compression ratio will be around 9.9:1 or 10:1? I will talk to him about the tuner, but he has used the Fuelpak a few times and has had good luck with it.
Educate me here....I'm learning. Thanks for helping.
I would say static compression will be closer to 9.5 with flat top pistons, typical deck height which puts pistons down in the cylinder .003"-.005", stock chamber volume of 85-86cc and a .0030" head gasket; lower if OEM head gasket at .045" is used. Having said that, static compression is just a number, the numbers that count are CCP and corrected compression; the compression the motor sees under operating conditions. Of course those number increase if static increases but are also a function of the timing of the intake valve closing. Earlier close captures more combustible air fuel which makes more power. Static compression could be 11:1 but with a late closing intake valve, CCP could be 170psi which is close to stock. The motor would fall on it's face and wake up about 4500rpms; not ideal for a heavy touring bike and two up touring. Elementary Watson.

The Fuelpak is OK for a Stage I build, maybe even Stage I plus cam but is no replacement for a more sophisticated fuel management system like the TTS Mastertune or the V&H Power Vision and a proper dyno tune by a competent tuner. If your builder doesn't have a dyno, find a local dyno tuner and see what he says and what system he prefers.

Go to the BigBoyz website and use the compression calculator with your data and see for yourself.
http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 01:23 PM
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He does have a dyno and I see that the only Fuelpak that fits my 2004 is only for canned maps. I have to double check with him....he must be thinking he can use an FP3 where he can make adjustments.
 

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