I am of the belief that the sumping issue is not necessarily an all or nothing affair.
I am of the opinion that machines out in service may be sumping, but not so much that the critical symptoms are manifest significantly for rider diagnosis, noticeable power loss or, in extreme cases, catastrophic failures.
Based upon my "diagnosis" today, I invite the collective wisdom of the brain-trust here.

2018 FLTRX Road Glide 107" - bone stock.
2000 miles, broken in properly; 1,000 mile service done by me with appropriate components at approximately 800 miles.

Today I performed the following "test."

Engine warmed up and checked oil level. 3/4 of the way up the hash marks.
Rode the local roads to the interstate short shifting, as I typically do for the first few miles.
Ambient temperature was about 77 degrees.
Once on the interstate on-ramp, I went through the gears shifting at 3,500 - 4000 rpm then ran the livin' **** out of it for about 7 miles in sixth gear - 90-110 mph; then, due to traffic, had to slow to 80-85 for two miles but alternated between 6th and 5th gears loading the engine as much as possible when gaps in traffic permitted - all the while going 80-85 mph.

When I was close enough to a rest area I shut off the engine and held the clutch in. Because I accelerated to about 85-90 for the 1/8 mile approach, the heavy bike actually coasted pretty well. Once in a safe spot, I put her on the jiffy stand and checked the oil immediately and then a few minutes later. Both times it was at the half-way point (on average) of the hash marks. Later that day, running some errands and not riding nearly as aggressively, I shut down and checked the oil hot - it was at the 5/8ths point.

So, there seems to be about a 1/8th delta on the oil level between aggressive riding and "normal" for me - which is much more conservative.

Assuming the hash marked area is graduated to a quart, that 1/8th translates to 4 ounces of difference ... on top of whatever already may be in the sump normally. I don't believe the MoCo for one minute that [fill in the ever changing blank amount] is "OK" in the crankcase as it's just a shuck and jive - dodge the warranty, hide the problem for two years scam. The service bulletin threshold amount "OK to be in the crankcase apparently has been changed as more and more "sumping bikes" became known. Classic example of "if at first you don'y succeed, change the rules!"

So, to those here that I trust much more than the MoCo (Mo-money Company) or, perish the thought, Stealerships,
I ask ... is my bike sumping?

 

i do not own a M8 but i will toss this out in generality.
hd has a rep for pooling oil at sustained high rpm running. so this does not surprise me at all, common knowledge. over the years there have been many attempts to solve the issue say increasing the size of the scavenge side of the pump for one and changing how the c/c is vented, just look at race engines, do they run stock, hardly.
in general, the hd uses diff pressure to move oil through the system, that diff'l largely controlled by the vent in conjunction with the piston action. on the down stroke, pressure builds on the under side and this diff'l forces oil to the collection area of the pump, usually the cam case. so what happens as piston speed increases? the diff'l becomes less because there is less time for the pressure rise/fall so the c/c pressure sorta equalizes.
it has been a practice if you are on a long run to vary your speed this will help prevent vapor lock which can prevent oil return to the bag on certain models especially so if certain mods were made, even hd knows this but they are not at fault, in stock form works as intended,you made the mods, not them.
some of my terminology might not be right on but the jest of the matter is.

 

These bikes are very picky about having the oil checked in the same exact location each time. Checking at different locations that probably weren't level or at the exact same position as at home is probably meaningless.

 

Only one way to know how much oil is in the sump and that is to drain the sump while hot.

 

Why have you made this post in like three different forum categories?

 

Someone can copy and paste this to all the other identical posts.

Follow the manual - don't cut off with the bike straight up and coast. They are designed to be run on the jiffy stand prior to checking oil. This leaves a uniform amount of oil in the sump. I believe the proper procedure for checking oil is in the manual and turning off the engine and coasting to a stop is not - to the best of my knowledge - the recommended procedure.

 

Nope it's not, Don't worry about it.