I have the parts and plan on installing this winter. Question, my 14 RK had 15K miles. This kit comes with pistons and rings, am I looking at most likely having to hone the cylinders?

 

At the very least i'd do a light hone to get the cross hatching to ensure the rings seal properly.

 

 

I assume you actually mean a Stage 3 kit, as the Stage 4 kits all come with cylinders? If so, the instructions are quite clear:

"It is assumed cylinders are new or very low mileage. Measure cylinders per service manual and check piston fit following instructions in supplied piston kit instruction sheet. If proper fitment cannot be attained (out-of-round, tapered, etc.) for standard pistons supplied, new cylinders must be purchased."

It seems that you should have two sets of instructions, the main set which I quote above, plus a set with your pistons.

 

The MoCo's quality control has been found lacking at times.

 

I see different stage 4's for the 103. Some dealers sell the stage 4 with and without jugs. The one I bought, the dealer provided the 58 mm TB, high flow injectors, the 58 mm intake, and a screamin eagle race tuner (orange) . Sold the kit for $2300. I bought it for a .45 handgun and $650 and have sold all the pieces I didn't need and recouped $950 back.

I did some research with zippers and fuel motor and they say the stock TB and injectors are good all the way up to 125 hp,, beyond that, you should add the bigger TB setup and high flow injectors. I have sold all the extra pieces already and this didn't come with the jugs. That is why I am asking this question. The pistons are stock diameter but higher compression. I kind of figured that I would have to hone out the cylinders and will check the ring gap after. \
Any other input is welcome. thanks

 

when does the crank bearing come into play in a build like this? at what point should one do the conversion?

when is timken conversion required on engine build?

 

I am very easy on my RK, I will get on it once in a while, but I won't beat it. When I got this bike I told myself that I would treat it very easy, might be the last bike I ever bought. Now if I tell you one day that I am finished modifying my bike, you know I am lying. LOL

 

This is going to depend on what year and bike this is going on. I.E. older bikes have a 46mm TB and newer touring have 50mm TB. When I did my upgrades I went with a SE 50mm TB as my stock was a 46. If your stock is a 50 you are probably ok but keep in mind its not just about size. HPI TB will flow so much better than a factory unit. Comes down to how much you are willing to spend and if that extra few ponies is worth the added cost.

 

I am not looking to race it and see if I can squeeze every last hp out of it. It is a 14 with 50 mm TB and ACR. The CNC ported heads have provisions for ACR so I am ok there. If I can go from 80 to 100 hp. I will be more than pleased.