My new 107 build has been on 2 small heat cycles
first one being 1 minute last night
second one 2 minutes today
(it was doing a little idle fluctuations ,I did check intake bolts all good)
Idle was stumbling

oil pressure at solid 31 both times at a idle and didnt vary at all
no lifter noise at all very quite
outside temp is 60 degrees

i didnt rev it up to 1200 - 1800 yet but will on next (3rd) heat cycle which will be for 4-5 minutes
does this sound about right?

 

Sounds normal. It takes some time to settle in.

 

don't do heat cycles by time,do them by heat.heads & cylinders should never get too hot to lay your hands on with out getting burnt.4-5 minutes is way too long to let a new build sit & idle

 

Stop with the heat cycles already; ride the bike to seal the rings. It takes heat and compression for a good ring seal. Get on a road where you can run up to 4th gear keeping rpms under 3500 and then decel down; rinse and repeat. Should be able to seat the rings in about 10 cycles. 31psi at idle seems a bit high but maybe there is a reason.

 

I followed this method..2600 miles on her and she runs flawlessly and hasn't used a drop of oil.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

We warm the engine 3 times to 150 degree cylinder temps.
Seems to work for us.
Scott

 

Here is some info from our FM University site regarding engine break in with our kits:

On a new engine build we recommend starting with the appropriate base tune and doing three full heat cycles from ambient to full operating temp, while the motor is idling pay close attention and attend to any abnormal sounds or oil leaks. We then recommend taking the bike for a short drive (or running the bike on the dyno at low speed) at light RPM and load and note any areas of the tune that need immediate attention and attend to them straight away. We will then go straight to tuning whether it is on the dyno or on the street. Start with the light load low RPM areas first, then move to the mid-moderate load regions of the tune. Do not run the motor at higher loads & hi RPM until you have the light-moderate loads areas within reasonable tune first. During the initial tuning process & break in it is extremely important that you do not subject the motor to extreme load and engine temps. Make sure you have the best tuning product for your application and a willingness to learn. Be sure you have a good base map/calibration to start with and use all the resources available, and remember we are here to help. But remember whatever you do DONT wait 500-1000 miles before you tune your new build!

 

This is news to me.

 

I have found putting medium to medium/ high load on an engine is needed for proper ring seal. The motoman is closer to what I do.

BUT I agree. A proper tuning device and proper base cals is important. This is why I always suggest TTS with their base maps that have actually been created on a dyno. Not just best guess VE tables with same spark tables as everything else that gets emailed.

 

I will add that we have detailed break-in info on our web site, that our clients have used for many years.
Scott