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14 glide leaking jugs..

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Old 12-07-2018, 08:56 AM
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Default 14 glide leaking jugs..

Hello all, last year I removed my jugs and powder coated al my chrome.. I replaced all new gaskets yet now am having a leak.. I know it sucks trying to torque tops of jugs in the chassis but I had to tighten a couple by ha d.. do these pictures looks like it’s just the top gaskets leaking? Does anyone or can anyone recommend a specialty tool for me to torque these correctly or do you think maybe I should start with a retorque maybe they’re just a little loose? Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:26 AM
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Good pics, helps to see it up close...

Looks to me like you have some seepage from both the upper and lower rocker box gaskets in different places.

I just did a job last weekend that required both of these gaskets, going from clear-coated aluminum boxes to chrome. Those mating surfaces were really smooth, not sure how smooth your powdercoated surfaces are. Probably worth setting an afternoon aside to replace them with some different gaskets than the ones last used. I think the James gaskets are very forgiving with less-than-perfectly-smooth mating surfaces.

All the best,

Shane
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:50 AM
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You don't powder coat gasket surfaces. You will like need to pull the covers off and remove the PC from the surface. .
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:26 AM
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And check gasket surfaces for straightness. Some powder coaters get carried away with the heat causing slight warping.
you might be looking for something like this-
https://express.google.com/u/0/produ...BoCOE8QAvD_BwE
 

Last edited by jbarr1; 12-07-2018 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 12-07-2018, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jbarr1
And check gasket surfaces for straightness. Some powder coaters get carried away with the heat causing slight warping.
you might be looking for something like this-
https://express.google.com/u/0/produ...BoCOE8QAvD_BwE
Good point, if the surface is clean, I usually run the surface on a plate with some 320 wet and dry after PCing.
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 11:17 AM
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The surface is perfectly smooth as it was when removed originally. Everything was masked off so I’m wondering if maybe it’s not torqued down enough but I will remove it all and start fresh that way I know I’mts perfect.. any recommendations on specialty tools for torquing with engine inside of chassis?
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 11:32 AM
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You should be able to get most with a click type torque wrench. The rest I do with a box end and fish scale.
 
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Old 12-08-2018, 06:08 PM
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7/16 dogbone for the tight spots if you don’t trust your feel.
 
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Old 12-09-2018, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ntraindavefl
7/16 dogbone for the tight spots if you don’t trust your feel.
Yep. For people that aren't sure what this is, they are also called torque adapters. Two vendors that offer them and Snap-on and Stanley Proto.

http://a.co/d/fxBZcVV
 
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Old 12-09-2018, 10:49 PM
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For spots where the torque adaptors or dogbones are still to small, ( hitting of the torque wrench head against the frame, even with the torque adaptors) I use an 1/4 Allen key which is curves at both sides. Just need to calculate the torque setting at the wrench to compensate with the extra length of the curves Allen key.
On the torque wrench install a 1/4 long socket.
This is where the rounded side of Allen key will slide in.
Does it for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Performance-Intake-Manifold-Wrench/dp/B0022ZVPG4 https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Performance-Intake-Manifold-Wrench/dp/B0022ZVPG4
 
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