Best 107 kit?
#1
Best 107 kit?
Id like recommendations as to who makes the best 107 kit, what are best cams and should clutch be changed? Im looking for probably what everyone wants: more power, speed, and durability. I mostly ride country highways, sometimes interstates, rarely city riding. I will probably put at least 10,000 miles on a year and did 15,000 last year. Needs to handle mountains too. Thanks in advance for all good advice.
#3
Fuel Moto probably sells the most 107 kits and has good pricing with good reviews. Kirby at Vee Twin racing, a forum sponsor also handles plenty of 107 combos and can offer a wide range of component options to match your riding style. Talk to a few reputable shops and determine which one appeals to you most. You’ll get plenty of comments to your question. Just be smart and go with a proven combination and be wary of those who try and overdo the salesmanship.
#6
I’d like recommendations as to who makes the best 107” kit, what are best cams and should clutch be changed? I’m looking for probably what everyone wants: more power, speed, and durability. I mostly ride country highways, sometimes interstates, rarely city riding. I will probably put at least 10,000 miles on a year and did 15,000 last year. Needs to handle mountains too. Thanks in advance for all good advice.
Just some friendly advice from someone who has a well-built and tuned HD by some of the best in the country. Add in many modified snowmobiles, etc over the years.
*IF* you must do something, get yourself an S&S 124" LC motor or S&S 111 and get yourself a warranty. Or, IF you must go 107", don't let power numbers mess with a good plan- CCP should be kept around 190 if you truly value touring.
My 2 cents. Take it for what it's worth.
EDIT: I see you're in central Indiana. Look up Darren Sheffer of Sheffer Performance. World class dyno tuner and won't steer you wrong. Count your blessings you that close as he's in Evansville.
Last edited by rhuff; 02-24-2019 at 09:53 AM.
#7
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#8
Thanks rhuff. Does Sheffer sell the kits and do the build? I don't know squat about CCP or why keeping it around 190 is important. Crank case pressure? How would 190 be exceeded and is that when it goes ballistic/catastrophic destruction? I originally was planning to go even bigger but on other posts several people said there have been problems with bores bigger than 107. I'm no expert so I wasn't sure if by skirts being too thin they meant the sides (skirts?) of the pistons were too thin? Or are those engines cylinder walls too thin?
I can't afford those new engines from S&S. I was hoping to be able to afford to build up my 96" maybe winter of 2019/2020 and think I might be able to afford the 107" and all related costs including the tune and if necessary a clutch upgrade and HPI throttle body. I have (new 14k mile ago) Rinehart 2-into-1 pipes and K&N air filter. Also bought the FP3 which I've been told since is not the best way to go.
Is a 107" (or could you recommend bigger kits without buying the whole engine?) if built and tuned properly the way to go when I do the build? I know you said stock for durability is likely best but I'm not satisfied with the level of power, especially when someone in a car on a country highway does 50mph when it's illegal to pass and when i get the passing zone the bike doesn't jump fast enough to pass with traffic coming from opposite direction at a distance I think the bike SHOULD be able to pass.
I can't afford those new engines from S&S. I was hoping to be able to afford to build up my 96" maybe winter of 2019/2020 and think I might be able to afford the 107" and all related costs including the tune and if necessary a clutch upgrade and HPI throttle body. I have (new 14k mile ago) Rinehart 2-into-1 pipes and K&N air filter. Also bought the FP3 which I've been told since is not the best way to go.
Is a 107" (or could you recommend bigger kits without buying the whole engine?) if built and tuned properly the way to go when I do the build? I know you said stock for durability is likely best but I'm not satisfied with the level of power, especially when someone in a car on a country highway does 50mph when it's illegal to pass and when i get the passing zone the bike doesn't jump fast enough to pass with traffic coming from opposite direction at a distance I think the bike SHOULD be able to pass.
#10
Thanks rhuff. Does Sheffer sell the kits and do the build? I don't know squat about CCP or why keeping it around 190 is important. Crank case pressure? How would 190 be exceeded and is that when it goes ballistic/catastrophic destruction? I originally was planning to go even bigger but on other posts several people said there have been problems with bores bigger than 107. I'm no expert so I wasn't sure if by skirts being too thin they meant the sides (skirts?) of the pistons were too thin? Or are those engines cylinder walls too thin?
I can't afford those new engines from S&S. I was hoping to be able to afford to build up my 96" maybe winter of 2019/2020 and think I might be able to afford the 107" and all related costs including the tune and if necessary a clutch upgrade and HPI throttle body. I have (new 14k mile ago) Rinehart 2-into-1 pipes and K&N air filter. Also bought the FP3 which I've been told since is not the best way to go.
Is a 107" (or could you recommend bigger kits without buying the whole engine?) if built and tuned properly the way to go when I do the build? I know you said stock for durability is likely best but I'm not satisfied with the level of power, especially when someone in a car on a country highway does 50mph when it's illegal to pass and when i get the passing zone the bike doesn't jump fast enough to pass with traffic coming from opposite direction at a distance I think the bike SHOULD be able to pass.
I can't afford those new engines from S&S. I was hoping to be able to afford to build up my 96" maybe winter of 2019/2020 and think I might be able to afford the 107" and all related costs including the tune and if necessary a clutch upgrade and HPI throttle body. I have (new 14k mile ago) Rinehart 2-into-1 pipes and K&N air filter. Also bought the FP3 which I've been told since is not the best way to go.
Is a 107" (or could you recommend bigger kits without buying the whole engine?) if built and tuned properly the way to go when I do the build? I know you said stock for durability is likely best but I'm not satisfied with the level of power, especially when someone in a car on a country highway does 50mph when it's illegal to pass and when i get the passing zone the bike doesn't jump fast enough to pass with traffic coming from opposite direction at a distance I think the bike SHOULD be able to pass.
I don't know if Darren does kits. I know he can build a wicked stage 2 (cam swap) that are putting up great numbers. He will definitely tune whatever you have built though. And he know his chit. If you're doing a 107", you're going to want some mildly worked over heads. You can definitely get a stout 107" built for 4-5 grand. No worries there. Just remember if you're looking at a basic 107 kit, you want heads ($700 ish), tuner ($200-500), dyno tune ($3-400), probably upgraded clutch (2-300).
If you aren't willing to do heads, leave it alone and do a full stage one.
Budget hopefully around $4k, MAYBE $5