Quick help? Tdc cam assembly
 

I fook the can chest apart to service tensioners and change inner cam bearings. Everything is staying stock. When i was removing the rear cam bolt i msy have turned the crank a 1/8 turn. What does this mean on my reassembly. I will have all the timing marks aligned i will confirm tdc before push rods. I am wondering if I moved the crank i may have that front cylinder off of tdc as i start to reassemble. Do i leave it and check when i do the push rods or should i check and move now before cam plate goes back. Thanks

don't worry about TDC,just make sure the cam timing marks line up.

As Kirby points out, getting proper alignment on cam timing is key and an often made mistake. One tooth off and the bike will start and run but not very well. If you rotated the crank when removing the rear cam bolt, you rotated everything so you did not change timing. Follow Kirby's instructions and check your work per the attached photos. The top photo is the front piston (#2) at TDC and the lower photo is the rear (#1) piston at TDC.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...cd043417fc.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...eac289ca2a.jpg

Thanks for your help
 

Appreciated you guys responding. I worked late in the garage last night and when re read my note today and reviewed the manual it was clear. Being my first gobat it good to bounce things off someone.

So tonight changed the inner cam bearings and started putting it back together. Had to stop because my red locktite was empty, ready for the crank and rear cam bearing bolt.

Red loctite?

I had the same thought.

OP, if it were me (and it has been a few times), don't use Loctite unless the manual calls for it, and even then I would use Blue. Inevitably you will need to get back in there again at some point, if only just to inspect your tensioners and stuff.

After putting the miles on my bike, I am currently in the middle of replacing my second round of tensioners, and I have kicked myself for some of the things I did the last time I had the cam chest open.

Thanks for replying
 

I use blue locktite in the stationary stuff and red in the moving fastners. Turns out i opened the package with the new bolts before coming to work and they already look to have locktite in them. So with this refresh i did bith tensioners and changed the inner cam bearings. Turns out the outer shoe was 50% and the inner was like new. Oil pump looked good and lifters were clean and tight. Hoping to be able to start it up on Friday. Motor is all stock with 36k miles

Red Loctite on the cam and crank sprocket bolts.. It's in the manual.