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96" Oil Consumption Concern

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  #11  
Old 05-10-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Fastfwd
I've never cracked a motor open. There are motorcycle mechanic school videos for the twin showing how to do it. I just bought the service manual too. Can those rockers come off while I'm replacing the front motor mount?
Good move on the service manual; it will come in handy. Is "rockers" a reference to the rocker arms? No relationship between rocker arms and the front motor mount. The motor will have to be jacked up a bit to R/R the front motor mount. Are you replacing with OEM or aftemarket? If OEM, expect a "break in" period of a little more vibration while the new mount "settles" in. Follow the service manual torque on the bolt. Some will leave the bolt just snug, start the bike and let it idle a while before final torquing the bolt. I run the Glide Pro mount and like it much better.

Try changing the breathers; like I said; cheap parts, can't hurt anything and might help keep some of the oil out of the air filter on your trip.
 
  #12  
Old 05-10-2019, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
Plugs look OK to me, not showing oil fouling. However, the oil in the air filter/housing indicates head breathers not functioning properly. At 62K miles the umbrella valve in the old type breathers may be hardening and leaking. Consider replacing them with the later (2011 IIRC) stamped breathres (PN 17025-03A). They will come with new bolts and are said to be more efficient. You appear to be a DIY guy so replacing the head breathers with the new ones will be a piece of cake. I remove the tank when changing them but really raising the tank is all that is necessary. The front one is easy, the rear a bit more challenging because of the limited work space but they will come out; just have to play around with it. The new breather kit will come with new shorter bolts and is much easier to R/R.

If you are so inclined, venting the new breathers to the atmosphere would also help but, at a minimum, change the breathers and see if that helps oil consumption; parts are cheap and the R/R is easy to do before taking the planned trip.

Of cours, the oil could be getting by the rings but, as has been said, a compression and leakdown test will better inform the condition of the top end which can also be dealt with after the trip. Having said that, your situation should not deter taking the planned trip.
This ^^^
 
  #13  
Old 05-11-2019, 08:36 AM
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I've gone back to the early ones as they are easy to rebuild, I tried the later ones in a 131 ci motor and they really did not make any difference. Last rebuild they came out. After 50-60K (2 bikes) the flappers were still soft but filter material got hard, While the material was in one piece, it broke apart when I squeezed on the material. The 02 TCs had a plastic breather valve for a short time. They were a POS.
 
  #14  
Old 05-15-2019, 10:58 AM
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As stated, looks like updating the breathers is in need... Plugs look good... Do yourself a favor and get a motorcycle jack (Sears online $110.00) best investment you can make. It makes everything easier... Also vent the breathers to atmosphere. I believe DK customs has some pretty good kits...
 
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2019, 11:09 AM
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I have not read all responses but if you are "topping" it off while cold you are over filling it. Read the manual and do as it says. Cold should not be over 1/2 way up the marks.
 
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:07 PM
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I'm looking back into this. The engine oil was apparently leaking into the primary and I discovered it during the trip when the primary got so full that it began to leak. So, I gathered from a local indy in Milwaukee that my crankshaft seal? into the primary could be the culprit. I'm also seeing at least one post elsewhere that implicates that these butterfly valves failing could be the actual source of the why and how the crankshaft seal would fail and leak to begin with. Does that sound like it could be accurate for the 96" Twin Cam too?

I guess I'm asking if I need to replace the crankshaft seal to stop the leaking if it will require doing that butterfly valve job too or if I don't will it just be asking for another failure? I'm not comfortable with the crankshaft seal replacement myself. I gather it might run around $300 to do so I would rather not do that more than once.

Good news is that the engine isn't really burning oil. So, it doesn't need to be rebuilt. Yet.
 
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:25 PM
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Or.....

Could I go for the butterfly valve job first and see if that doesn't remedy the leaking into the primary? If the crankshaft seal has started to leak is it done and in need of replacement?

I guess it wouldn't hurt to try the butterfly valve replacement first.
 
  #18  
Old 08-26-2019, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastfwd
I'm looking back into this. The engine oil was apparently leaking into the primary and I discovered it during the trip when the primary got so full that it began to leak. So, I gathered from a local indy in Milwaukee that my crankshaft seal? into the primary could be the culprit. I'm also seeing at least one post elsewhere that implicates that these butterfly valves failing could be the actual source of the why and how the crankshaft seal would fail and leak to begin with. Does that sound like it could be accurate for the 96" Twin Cam too?

I guess I'm asking if I need to replace the crankshaft seal to stop the leaking if it will require doing that butterfly valve job too or if I don't will it just be asking for another failure? I'm not comfortable with the crankshaft seal replacement myself. I gather it might run around $300 to do so I would rather not do that more than once.

Good news is that the engine isn't really burning oil. So, it doesn't need to be rebuilt. Yet.
First off it's not a butterfly valve, it's more of a poppet valve. Depending on the age / mileage of the bike, it might help but it depends on where the extra primary oil came from. The leaky crank seal could cause oil to transfer from either the motor or tranny. If coming from the motor, the breather valves are worth checking. If coming from the tranny the breathers valves are likely working fine.
 
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
First off it's not a butterfly valve, it's more of a poppet valve. Depending on the age / mileage of the bike, it might help but it depends on where the extra primary oil came from. The leaky crank seal could cause oil to transfer from either the motor or tranny. If coming from the motor, the breather valves are worth checking. If coming from the tranny the breathers valves are likely working fine.
It's definitely coming from the motor. The original concern was that the engine was burning oil and I couldn't imagine it was actually burning that much oil. I have to keep topping the motor off to offset the leak. It's engine oil supposedly formulated for all three holes so hopefully it isn't causing any further damage, but I would like to fix it.
 
  #20  
Old 08-26-2019, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastfwd
It's definitely coming from the motor. The original concern was that the engine was burning oil and I couldn't imagine it was actually burning that much oil. I have to keep topping the motor off to offset the leak. It's engine oil supposedly formulated for all three holes so hopefully it isn't causing any further damage, but I would like to fix it.
If the extra primary oil is coming from the motor then you likelike need to replace the main shaft seal but need to check cylinder leakage, blocked breathers passage and breather valves. You may also want to make sure the motor isn't sumping but you will notice excessive heat and poor performance from the motor.
 


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