Yes another cam spring tensioner post
#11
05-14-2019, 09:26 PM
Club Member
Not trying to scare the OP, but it did happen.
#12
05-15-2019, 05:31 AM
#13
05-15-2019, 09:03 AM
Thanks for the replies,i am going to take nomadmax up on his offer. I have new inner bearings but no puller installer,i put one in my cart on ebay for 85 dollars, i will say i am aphrensive about putting in new bearings, i have read a few stories of them falling apart being pulled out and then fall in cranckcase.��
I do agree with others that the threads in the doweled holes can strip but out of the hundreds of thousands of cam plate R/R's, the failure rate is almost not measurable. All I am saying is why make work that may not be necessary? In my experience, when one "fixes" things that are not broken, other problems are encountered. Unless the threads come out with the fastener as happened to QC or you strip the threads tightening those two fasteners to the low end of the torque spec as has been suggested above twice or you plan to R/R the cam plate several times a year, why make work that is not necessary?
Clean the hole out with a thread chaser or a tap to remove any thread locker, make sure the hole is dry, apply some blue Loctite, torque to the low end of the spec and if the fastener tightens up, call it good. Saved time and money. Of course, if the extra work will make you feel better, do it.
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Campy Roadie (05-15-2019)
#14
05-27-2019, 08:52 PM
Don't by the Fix My Hog videos; totally agree with Nomadmax on that. If you feel you need some guidance, take advantage of his offer to discuss the project. Looking at your tool it would appear that you could modify the handles so you can lock the handles when the tensioner is unloaded. If you do that, you can remove the tensioner without removing the inner cam chain and the cams will stay "timed". If the inner cams are aligned, dot to dot per Max, it is impossible to disturb cam timing. Both the rear cam and pinion sprocket can only be installed one way. Take note of Nomad's comment on the camp position sensor, if you have pre 2001 model.
I see the oil pump alignment pins and and the Service Manual, the pins are good but use them in conjunction with the pump alignment procedure in the S/M. Per Nomad, oil pump should be installed separate from the plate, primarily to insure proper fitment of the oil pump spigot into the crankcase scavenge port; getting the spigot in the port properly and with a new o-ring will minimize the potential for sumping which often results from a first time cam/plate/pump R/R. BTW, don't see the scavenge port o-ring or the cam plate to case o-rings. I also see the spring clip chingaderas to hold up the lifters as well as rocker box gaskets; the spring clip holders have a way of letting go at the wrong time and letting the lifters drop so having the rocker box gaskets handy is a good idea. The magnets work to hold up the lifters.
I don't disagree with Nomad on studding the two doweled holes in the case but don't believe it will be necessary. I have changed cams in both my bikes several times in a season looking for the right cam and have never stripped one of those holes but I have always torqued those two fasteners to the lower end of the torque spec; not a bad idea but IMHO, if the low end of the torque spec holds with a bit of blue Loctite, all good.
I to think it a mistake not to replace the OEM INA inner cam bearings with a set of full compliment Toyo/Torrington bearings. The parts are cheap and you will be kicking yourself in the *** if one of the OEM bearings fail down the road which will result in major damage and they have a history of failure. Not a pandemic but why take the chance.
Assume you are replacing with CYCO tensioner? If the outer that was replace is OEM, it should be changed to CYCO as well.
I see the oil pump alignment pins and and the Service Manual, the pins are good but use them in conjunction with the pump alignment procedure in the S/M. Per Nomad, oil pump should be installed separate from the plate, primarily to insure proper fitment of the oil pump spigot into the crankcase scavenge port; getting the spigot in the port properly and with a new o-ring will minimize the potential for sumping which often results from a first time cam/plate/pump R/R. BTW, don't see the scavenge port o-ring or the cam plate to case o-rings. I also see the spring clip chingaderas to hold up the lifters as well as rocker box gaskets; the spring clip holders have a way of letting go at the wrong time and letting the lifters drop so having the rocker box gaskets handy is a good idea. The magnets work to hold up the lifters.
I don't disagree with Nomad on studding the two doweled holes in the case but don't believe it will be necessary. I have changed cams in both my bikes several times in a season looking for the right cam and have never stripped one of those holes but I have always torqued those two fasteners to the lower end of the torque spec; not a bad idea but IMHO, if the low end of the torque spec holds with a bit of blue Loctite, all good.
I to think it a mistake not to replace the OEM INA inner cam bearings with a set of full compliment Toyo/Torrington bearings. The parts are cheap and you will be kicking yourself in the *** if one of the OEM bearings fail down the road which will result in major damage and they have a history of failure. Not a pandemic but why take the chance.
Assume you are replacing with CYCO tensioner? If the outer that was replace is OEM, it should be changed to CYCO as well.
I do have oil scavenage o ring but not aware of cam plate to case o rings.
#15
05-28-2019, 04:02 AM
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o0smitters0o (05-30-2019)
#16
05-28-2019, 04:13 AM
Stellar HDF Member
AMS, automotive machine and supply, I think they are in Texas. Can't say enough about those guys. They rent the tools. 10% of cost plus shipping.https://www.automotivemachine.com/
Last edited by Hoginedgewood; 05-28-2019 at 04:15 AM.
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o0smitters0o (05-30-2019)
#17
05-28-2019, 01:22 PM
AMS, automotive machine and supply, I think they are in Texas. Can't say enough about those guys. They rent the tools. 10% of cost plus shipping.https://www.automotivemachine.com/
They are in Cleburne, Texas, about 30 miles due south of Fort Worth.
#19
05-30-2019, 09:27 AM
Cruiser
Do as much as you can with the your year Service manual. Most are available online. If I could I'd go back and buy used.. 5000$ Dyna 5000$ in performance parts. you would have a bike way better built than stock. If your **** canning stock look at Red Shift Dual Piston Tensioners. There is some good tech info on Zippers website. As far videos go you can't really beat you tube. Then if you still have questions these forums are great. Twin Cam tools have come down in price since the M8.
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