i actually like the SE hydraulic cam plate upgrade, it is the least expensive of the kits and offers good performance and an upgrade in lifespan for the tensioners. If it;s in your budget you could get the camplate/oilpump kit and install your same cams and have a good set up. 22.5-25 slow jet and 165 main jet will get you in the ball park, maybe use a .030 headgasket and put it back together, the small bump in compression may or not be noticed, but it wont hurt.

 

From the pictures you posted, I think you are safe running what you got. However, I would like to see a photo the cam plate and parts. Looking for scuffing at the cam plate surface where the pump mounts, the outer surface of the gerotors and the innner surface of the pump cavity where the rotors sit. If you intend to retain the OEM cam plate and pump, you should take the pump apart, inspect the gerotors, clean everything and put it back together; just pay attention to the what parts go where.



No disrespect to marcodarq but for your application, the $500 spent on the hydraulic upgrade (SE Hybrid PN 25284-11) would be better spent on other parts that can actually improve performance. Not that I don't like the SE Hybrid kit but just think the cost/benefit is not there. The SE Hybrid conversion does not include a roller chain for the inner tensioner so the upgrade is incomplete since you still run the early link chain on the inner tensioners; an improvement for sure but incomplete. The only way for a full conversion would be to convert to the '07 up kit (PN 25282-11) would require a set of conversion cams, which you could do since you are buying cams anyway. It is a cost/benefit decision that only you can make but if you did want to convert to the hydraulic tensioner/roller chain setup, that's the way to go. The main reason for converting to hydraulic tensioners is to extend tensioner service life which a set of CYCO tensioners will do. Bottom line is that the tensioners, regardless of configuration, are consumable parts with a service life and require checking from time to time. CYCO vs hydraulic might mean checking every 25K-35K miles vs every 50K miles.

As I said in my previous, spend some of the tensioner savings on a basic refurbish of the heads; no porting, just new guide seals, valve seating, a multi-angle valve job and a minimum cut on the heads just to true up the head surface; not more than .010". Put things back together with a .030" head gasket, fresh set of lifters, S&S 509 cams and the Daytona oil pump if you want to increase capacity and scavenging. If you keep the early pump, might want to install the Baisley LMR-002 pressure relief spring; it will improve idle and low rpm pressure just a bit.

Marcodarq has you headed in the right direction on carb tuning. You can run the same cam set if/when you convert to 95"/98" but if you do have heads ported at that time, a higher lift cam set would be a good idea to take advantage of the increased head flow. You could also keep the 509 cams and install a set of 1.7 ratio rockers which would increase the lift. Higher lift cams ($350) vs high ratio rockers ($200), another cost benefit decision when the time comes.

Keep looking for a deal on exhaust; the true duals are leaving some TQ on the table. Good luck; if you have more questions, PM me.

 

I've been thinking about this a lot, and its killing me not having a ride. I think I am just going to slap .030 head gaskets in it and cyco tensioners so I can get can get some riding in before summers over. I may open up the oil pump and take a look. I wanted to get the 509s, but looking at the specs, they dont seem all that different from the 203s, plus I will have to do bearings. I'm just gonna run what I got for now, and try to get my carb tuned properly and keep an eye out for pipes. Maybe this winter or next, I'll get the a big bore kit, swap cams, and go all out. I'll let you guys know how I make out. Thanks!

 

Your call but unless money is an issue, you are talking about a Saturday to get the job done if parts are in hand. The 509s are very different from the SE203 cams; completely different profile and major difference between a 34* and 18* intake valve close event. Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

Hopped on ebay this morning and both the cams and install tool were on sale, so I went for it. Didn't really want to do all of this work and not change anything anyway. 😎😎

 

Biggest bang for the use with those 203's is to bore to 98".
Headwork would expose more, and help cool that engine as well......food for thought.
Andrews 37 intake closing number is an extremely poor choice for an 88"/OE compression engine.
Needs 9.8-10.0 cr.
Scott

 

Take it for what it's worth. 2000 FLHT. I went with Cyco shoes, Andrews 26 cams and converted to a CV carb from the factory MM injection. Runs like a top and get about 48 MPG. Stock shoes were shot at 32,000 miles.

 

Hey yall,
Its been a while, but i just wanted to stop by and thank everyone for all the help. I hit a few snags doing the cams and tensioners, but the bike turned out great. Ended up putting the cometic 030 head gaskets on it, s&s 509 cams, and replaced the spring tensioners. Just finally got new s&s powertune dual headers and have been messing with the carb a bit. Very glad I went with the 509s. Bike runs and sounds great. Still a little rich I think but not too worried about it. I just checked the tensioners after about 8k miles and they are doing OK. Now, hopefully I can just ride this baby into the ground. Thanks again for the advice. Maybe someday I'll be the expert ha.

 

Couldn't disagree with DJL any more - CHANGE NOTHING UNTIL YOU GET RID OF your cam chain springs - it's already apart, the next set could grenade in 2,000 miles (once you lose an engine, you'll understand).

 

Nor sure what you disagree with; please clarify. Also a little late on the warning.

The OP has replaced the OEM tensioners but did not say if the replacements were CYCO or OEM. I assume CYCO since that is what was recommended and IIRC, he did purchase the install tool. The CYCO tensioners do not have a history of failure; completely different material the holds up much better than the OEM parts and have not disintegrated in 8K miles. The OP will be fine if he checks the tensioners about every 25K miles knowing that at some point they will reach their service limits and have to be replaced. Even if the OP upgraded to the '07 up hydraulic setup, he would be checking those OEM tensioners periodically as well. The OP saved a bunch of money and has built himself a reliable ride and seems to be enjoying the results of his labor.

The only thing I would add for the OP to consider as some point in the future is a programmable ignition like the Daytona Twin Tec TC88.